TRAVEL GUIDE: KANAZAWA, JAPAN

Tradition seeps through the pores of the streets of Kanazawa, Japan like rainwater through the cracks. There is beauty on every corner. From kimonos tied up in a beautiful bow, to the one you whisk away for a romantic weekend this Valentines (Happy Birthday). Posing so naturally, as pretty as a picture. So much scope like the spokes of the bicycles resting outside as you stop for green tea and matcha. Or locally brewed sake for your sommelier. So perfect and historic in all its 200 year ryokans and 400 trees that you could cry when you realize Kanazawa's worldwide beauty beyond the Far East even rivals Kyoto. But when the weather sheds a tear and the damp turns the dark wood to something cinematic by nightfall, this is when this town really becomes majestic in all its mesmerizing magic. But why pray for rain in this city when you and the one you hold close can put your hands together down the street for the sunlight of a new day?

Rain has it's benefits when it's not turning your umbrella and your frustration inside out with the wind. Apart from the vast farmland of this countryside city, this town has lots of museums (trust me). With architecture as amazing as New York's Guggenheim. The tourist highlight is for sure the 21st Century Museum Of Contemporary Art which really serves as a major cultural centre, demanding your awes attention. Michael Borremans and Mark Manders' 'Double Silence' exhibition is as epic as the "From Liverpool to Tokyo" John Lennon and Yoko Ono 'Double Fantasy' one back in Tokyo's rich Roppongi beneath its tower. As striking as the yellow blocks through the craniums of four female statues, this one will leave you speechless like all the amazing artwork given it's time and space in this building like real relationships and the connections you will make here. But once you take a dip (visual, not literal...just you try to dare) in 'The Swimming Pool' of Leandro Erlich for the main event of this gallery that people want to dive in, you will see from above as below, climbing the steel ladder of the coldest IG shot you'll take this trip. Surrounded by white walls that makes the sun shine even brighter for a minute you'll feel like your in the California gold of Los Angeles' Santa Monica off Venice Beach, or the talents of Miami's South Beach. But this twin city to Buffalo, NY among others is in Japan. A place with it's own beauty and purity. For every dream destination of Hawaii for the citizens of these cities, there's an outstanding Okinawa right at home for them. A stones throw. But skipping them when it comes to Kanazawa this is the place to Shinkansen surf to for a wonderful weekend. 

However if you prefer exhibits that make you question, as well as expand your mind, then why don't you take a train and taxi out to the outskirts where the amazing architecture of Nishida Kitaro lays out the formidable Bond lair or Batcave foundations of the inspired Ishikawa Museum of Philosophy and his life's work for the notebook, canvas and even Colombia gramophone record? Even with little English translation what this Japanese historian has done is not lost in translation. It helps if you have a great companion with you to communicate it all so compellingly. If you don't feel closer to the spirit of yourself after this one, you must be holding something back inside. The plastic chairs of the fifth floor balcony view lined up with an artist impression themselves also serve as the perfect viewpoint to ponder all of Kanazawa and the surrounding mountains before you. Kanazawa neighbours Nagano. A ski resort as sought after for the slopes as Okinawa is for the sun to bathe and bask. Which means Kanazawa is surrounded with the sort of beautiful border that landscapes all sorts of lasting memories for your muse. 

Right now in your 21st Century head back to the Contemporary Art Museum (because you can dip in and out at your pleasure and leisure with a day ticket), and you can see more on display. Like the Bunka Fashion Renaissance of 2021 which showcases the skills of students at university, outfitting their talents for the catwalk. Showing that the future of design is in Japan is in safe hands and seams, sewing needles between the lips. Just one of many outstanding displays here or contemporary art. Like the large black oval of Anish Kapoor that on a sloping concrete wall extending the entire breadth of the gallery with Jan Fabre's 'The Man Who Measures The Clouds' above, lifting a life, death and freedom evoking yardstick. 

But you didn't come all this way by bullet to spend all your time indoors. The real highlight of your trip like sun between the trees and shining leaves comes when you take a walk around the Kenroku-en Garden with greenery and views for miles you could walk for days. Seasons of your life even. From the signature cherry blossoms of Spring that are starting to bloom. To the red end leaves of Autumn every year in Japan falls into like a hallmark. This is one of the 'Three Great Gardens of Japan'. From the Kotojitoro lantern overlooking a pool of a pond so pure you won't be able to tell if you had your camera up the right way the reflection of Kasugimaike Pond or Hisagokie is so hauntingly real to the hallowed truth. Perfect paronamas made for watercolours of monumental mountains and the traits of this traditional town stroll and surround this landscape garden that dates back to the evoking Edo Period. This National Site of Special Scenic Beauty since 1985 (as long as this writer has been alive) is highlighted by the one of a kind Karasakinomatsu. The places between these pines tied together with rope that make them look like no other trees in Japan and especially Christmas ones, evident at most when 'tis the festive season.

Seasons greet you in this place like December 25th, but take the Ishikawamon back door gate to the Kanazawa Castle Park and a kingdom that even rivals the thrones in neighbouring Nagoya and the outstanding Osaka. No wonder these walls built in 1788 remain a National Important Cultural Property. There's so much to see here and do in Kanazawa, even for a couple of days weekend break for two. From the sublime shrine greeting you as you arrive at Kanazawa Station that looks like it could carry an Olympic torch with an eternal flame this year. To the Myouryuki Ninja Temple and the Nagamachi Samurai District, keeping pace with its winding long and winding roads to evade enemy attack. Or the Omicho Market in-between as you say oishi before making your way to the grand Geisha districts for the most traditonal Japanese beauty you'll see before you take the steps to the temple that greets you. Now you've had something to eat, how about somewhere to stay? Now it will take a little drive, or cab fare, but the magnificent Motoyu Ishiya is inspired. This Japanese inn is a 200 year ryokan that in evoking history elegantly will take you back to a time before from the tatami mat's to the view you slide the doors open for. Complete with postcard picturesque snow this season. This writer even finally had the balls (no pun intended) to use the soothing hot springs of an onsen (does someone always scrub your back, or was that just me?). But no traditional and theatrical stunning shows for your spotlight during corona sadly, but of course that's understandable. And when all the classic courses of your beautiful, traditional meal is an event in itself, your stage is set for an unforgettable night and a trip you'll always take in memory as you rest your head in reverie. Just open your dreaming eyes and see. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUDE: ENOSHIMA, JAPAN

Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path. 

Santa Monica surf shops. Miami art deco buildings for as far as the aforementioned Sea Candle can see for the perfect view of the city from dusk 'til dawn, night to day. Twilight to the fire in your eyes. With a vibe like neighbouring Kamakura, this is the place to catch waves like Hokusai or see miles of sand and shores before mountains more breathtaking than Keanu Reeves. But you best believe for all the similarities coast to coast, across the tracks, or the light of what's across the pond. Between the oceans, Enoshima has its own shimmering vibe. It's its own place. One that will have you falling faster than quicksand (but don't worry, there's none of that here). I'd barely even left the station and I was already in love with Enoshima. Almost as beautiful as the one I met there. Even the station is a shrine. Like all that is wonderful and traditional about Japan and the rest of the watching world from the horizon. From Okinawa to the place most Japanese love to visit abroad, Hawaii. But why leave when you can have it here? A place that rivals Japan's big city of  Tokyo, bright lights of Osaka and even the most beautiful city in the world of Kyoto for your next destination. The home of the best people and the place you should take your favourite person to too.

Inspired. This small island off the Shōnan coast off the Kanagawa prefecture is perfect. Part of mainland Fujisawa and among the closest beaches to the busy hubs of Tokyo and this writer's new home in Yokohama. Holding influence for artists from writers to painters colouring the water. We could write for days about this. We think or proclaim you should walk for miles. Through all the cobbled streets and traditional towns. Private owned coffee shops and local restaurants that deserve your business, masks on...especially in these turbulent times. Scaling this lands many peaks is worth your hiking pilgrimage. Especially to see the Enoshima Shrine itself honoring Benzaiten. The Buddhist goddess of music and entertainment who rose this city from the bottom of the sea in the sixth century herself. But how about the valleys? Time to dwell deeper into the Iwaya Caves and see real natural beauty in all its haunting hallmarks and history. Do you feel like the sole of your sneakers is getting bruised? Feet need a warm soak? Then why not tread water in the Enospa hot springs for the rest of your trip? Set to warm you like miso. From the hallowed Hakone to the nourishing Nikko you won't feel much more relaxed than this. And after all isn't that the true meaning, nature and heart of the word, "vacation"? Let Enoshima soothe your soul. Like the one of this British beat writer after being shown around the 19th century English style Samuel Cocking Garden by a wonderful woman and word traveller, local to it all, who had already shown me everything. Take a look at the shining beacon from the lighthouse. This Summer island doesn't just illuminate at Christmas. It's vibrant in its own electricity all year round. Mark your calenders for when all this settles and take a break. When it comes to beauty, Enoshima is that meaning. TIM DAVID HARVEY.