History runs through Japan like gold through pottery in the art of Kintsugi. Yet, the Samurai district of Kanazawa (the only place where you'll wish it would rain) and the entire breadth of Kyoto (the most beautiful city in the world) can't quite compare to Kawagoe. Saitama's super district that transports you back in time.
No wonder it's known as 'Little Edo'. But this old town road lasts for longer than Jiyugaoka's cute corner of Little Italy adorned with a grand gondola that would find it hard to steer itself around a corner. Still, that remains one of Tokyo's sweetest hidden gems.
Meanwhile, Kagawoe belongs in Saitama. Don't call it Tokyo like people who live in Yokohama and Chiba, even if this is the closest you'll get to the Edo period. Yep, when Lady Gaga played the Lions' home of the Seibu Dome last Summer in September it was dubbed a Tokyo tour. The same went for the champion Golden State Warriors vs Japanese hero Rui Hachimura Washington Wizards NBA Japan double-header in Saitama's Super Arena. Oh, and that Kadokawa Culture Museum picture you keep seeing on Instagram with influencers looking up to a skyscraper surrounding of books (heaven)? You get the idea.
Although a short train trip from Japan's capital, Kawagoe is an exclamation in its own right. Seeking out the Bell Tower should be on your Japanese bucket list like a SkyTree or trek to Mount Fuji. Imagine ringing in the New Year with this Bell Of Time (Toki no kane). Even the Great Fire of Kawagoe couldn't bring down a symbol of the city that's been telling time 365 days a year...for over 350 years. 6AM, 12PM, 3PM and 6 again. You can hear it chime four times every 24 hours.
Twin towns and cities to Kawagoe include Hokkaido's own Nakasatsunai, a place in Japan called Obama (yes, there is), Autun in France and Salem in Oregon. And that's not your lot.
Get your teeth into Candy Street (not just famous with dentists) and their infamous sweet potatoes will appeal. Sweet potato chips. Sweet potato ice cream. Sweet potato coffee. And yes, sweet potato beer. Only Bubba had more options with his now chain restaurant famous shrimp from 'Forrest Gump'.
If that wasn't enough filling. The small backstreet alley of Confectionary Row may just put you on your local jaw doctor's death row. 50 yen may not be able to get you a drink in those legendary Japanese vending machines that line the streets like Starbucks. But it can get you some old-fashioned sweets that take you back in time as much as these streets. The early Shōwa period is on show here as is a golden ticket to a paradise Willy Wonka couldn't even roll up.
Leading you on to Kurazukuri Street, perhaps the most famous of Kawagoe. Traditional kurazukuri, style Edo period warehouses take to the streets like tourists. These fireproof buildings were built after the blaze of 1893. Unfortunately on a recent trip, I saw fire engines outside a badly damaged building. A further reason why we need to preserve history like we do a place's integrity.
Japan is one of the most modern lands in the world, but it's still steeped in shrines to the past. Even October's very own, annual Kawagoe festival is designated as an "intangible cultural heritage". The saying, "you don't know where you're going, if you don't know where you came from" is an all too true cliché. One we must protect, like this town, with open arms. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
