TRAVEL GUIDE: KAWAGOE, SAITAMA, JAPAN

History runs through Japan like gold through pottery in the art of Kintsugi. Yet, the Samurai district of Kanazawa (the only place where you'll wish it would rain) and the entire breadth of Kyoto (the most beautiful city in the world) can't quite compare to Kawagoe. Saitama's super district that transports you back in time.

No wonder it's known as 'Little Edo'. But this old town road lasts for longer than Jiyugaoka's cute corner of Little Italy adorned with a grand gondola that would find it hard to steer itself around a corner. Still, that remains one of Tokyo's sweetest hidden gems.

Meanwhile, Kagawoe belongs in Saitama. Don't call it Tokyo like people who live in Yokohama and Chiba, even if this is the closest you'll get to the Edo period. Yep, when Lady Gaga played the Lions' home of the Seibu Dome last Summer in September it was dubbed a Tokyo tour. The same went for the champion Golden State Warriors vs Japanese hero Rui Hachimura Washington Wizards NBA Japan double-header in Saitama's Super Arena. Oh, and that Kadokawa Culture Museum picture you keep seeing on Instagram with influencers looking up to a skyscraper surrounding of books (heaven)? You get the idea.

Although a short train trip from Japan's capital, Kawagoe is an exclamation in its own right. Seeking out the Bell Tower should be on your Japanese bucket list like a SkyTree or trek to Mount Fuji. Imagine ringing in the New Year with this Bell Of Time (Toki no kane). Even the Great Fire of Kawagoe couldn't bring down a symbol of the city that's been telling time 365 days a year...for over 350 years. 6AM, 12PM, 3PM and 6 again. You can hear it chime four times every 24 hours. 

Twin towns and cities to Kawagoe include Hokkaido's own Nakasatsunai, a place in Japan called Obama (yes, there is), Autun in France and Salem in Oregon. And that's not your lot.

Get your teeth into Candy Street (not just famous with dentists) and their infamous sweet potatoes will appeal. Sweet potato chips. Sweet potato ice cream. Sweet potato coffee. And yes, sweet potato beer. Only Bubba had more options with his now chain restaurant famous shrimp from 'Forrest Gump'.

If that wasn't enough filling. The small backstreet alley of Confectionary Row may just put you on your local jaw doctor's death row. 50 yen may not be able to get you a drink in those legendary Japanese vending machines that line the streets like Starbucks. But it can get you some old-fashioned sweets that take you back in time as much as these streets. The early Shōwa period is on show here as is a golden ticket to a paradise Willy Wonka couldn't even roll up.

Leading you on to Kurazukuri Street, perhaps the most famous of Kawagoe. Traditional kurazukuri, style Edo period warehouses take to the streets like tourists. These fireproof buildings were built after the blaze of 1893. Unfortunately on a recent trip, I saw fire engines outside a badly damaged building. A further reason why we need to preserve history like we do a place's integrity.

Japan is one of the most modern lands in the world, but it's still steeped in shrines to the past. Even October's very own, annual Kawagoe festival is designated as an "intangible cultural heritage". The saying, "you don't know where you're going, if you don't know where you came from" is an all too true cliché. One we must protect, like this town, with open arms. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: SENDAI, JAPAN

 

Beef tongue. A delicacy as famous to this city as the cow in Kobe that was so good NBA player Joe 'Jellybean' Bryant named his late, great son after it. The number 8 and 24 of the Los Angeles Lakers. Forever. But as you get your lips round this, there are two stunning sights among so many in Sendai. Forget tongue like a first date. The cat will have yours when it comes to describing the speechless skyline. A sunset you'll never forget. One of the most incredible landmarks in all of Japan. Oh, and more beef than Kanye West, who once rapped on Wu-Tang Clan legend Ghostface Killah's 'Back Like That' remix with R&B prince Ne-Yo, "she ordered the Kobe beef like Shaquille O'Neal!" Now don't forget your lashings of tongue as you twist the night away in haiku like chopsticks around noodles.

Watching over the city like the Statue of Liberty does the prosperity of New York (but these days looking down with a tear in her eye), the iconic, inspiring Sendai Daikannon (officially known as Sendai Tendou Byakue Daikannon) is like nothing you've seen before. Even the beautiful bust of Kannon-ji looking across Ofuna, just outside of Yokohama. Or the world famous Kamakura Buddha. Although all are just as monumental. A God spreading blessings over the city and protecting it has even had some saying it looks like the final boss in a video game. But you know you'll want to meet her. Byakue Kannon to be exact and respectful. 100 feet high, among the tallest statues (the tallest at its 1991 completion and now the sixth. But who's counting?) in the world and with a gem in her hand. The purity of this figure can not be denied as it looks at you wherever you go. Whichever way the nearby traffic turns. But this isn't scary like when the M.C.U. decided to put up a 'Ms. Marvel' figure, sitting on the huge Welcome to New Jersey sign that had people clutching their wheels like those old Wonderbra ads that caused crashes. This is hauntingly spiritual. And inside carries even more influence. For just 500 measly yen you can see all the statues and dedications (108 Buddha) this robed goddess holds inside with pride. And even some small square views of the city she protects. Don't neglect the direct half-hour bus ride (815 or 825 from Sendai Station's West Exit 14th terminal) it takes to get there. Because she will take you even higher.

Even remotely, looking like one of her smaller statues from afar, she is still a sight to behold. Just take a look from the vista of Sendai Castle and the Aoba Castle Ruins (and the castle walls that still stand so proudly there. A three-stop train ride from Sendai Station to the International Centre (the Japanese home of figure skating dedications) and a 20 minute uphill walk will get you there. But signs warn of bears, snakes, murder hornets and Pumbaa from 'The Lion King', so be aware. Also imagine going all that way and then finding out that the statue of the samurai founder Date Masamune is covered up for restoration (not the first date I've been stood up for). At least they have a nice replica inside Sendai Station, next to all those spots for what's between your teeth. Still, even with Masamune hiding like a ninja in the shadows and some of his kingdom gone, the castle walls still stand proudly and the view of the city skyline (feeling like somewhere between Boston and divine Providence) is something else. Especially as the light gets low and all the skyscraper ones turn on and give you a wink. The legendary purple sunsets in Japan illuminate the skies even more though. As you wave hello to Byakue planted into the hills, looking as small as a gift shop souvenir, but carrying much more spiritual and emotional weight. Just like that between you and yours as you take in the romantic night view joggers and young lovers in their cars make a pilgrimage to. It's the perfect place for a picture, a selfie. A breather and a moment with the one that will take your breath away. The whole city is in front of you. And for a moment...it's yours.

Musuems and the Gokoku shrine surround the Date on horseback. Whilst zoos and amazing aquariums also make sure this city teems with all sorts of life. Modern trappings as per Japanese cities. Convenience stores and budget, but comfortable hotels on every corner (oh hey, APA). But also shrines to history and the spirit of which that lies throughout each path within the city. The Zuihōden Temple in all its black and gold glory. Or the nature that nurtures the city limits and all the Mediatheque future it points towards like Tokyo. Sendai, the second largest city north of there is just two Shinkansen hours of bullet time away. So hop on one like the new Brad Pitt movie. The Yagiyama Zoological Park. The Yamadera Risshakuji Temple, that's a real pilgrimage. The great Akiu Falls. And the outstanding Osaki Hachimangu Shrine to Sendai. From the summer Tanabata Festival to the thousands of Winter lights that illuminate the Pageant of Starlight. One of Japan's 20 designated cities is just a short train trip from Fukushima (which deserves its own break planned, the prefecture is so big), rising up like its neighbour after the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Sendai may be famous for its tongue. But the city itself has a lot more to speak for. There's a lot more at stake in Sendai than what's on the menu. Just check the itinerary. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: MATSUMOTO, JAPAN

Mountains surround Matsumoto in the Japanese prefecture of Nagano. Right now this naturally sublime skyline is no stranger to skiers and those who prefer boarding without wheels and pavement this snow season. Making the most of it until the sensational sakura season comes into pink and white blossoming bloom. These skyscraper dwarfing monoliths in an avalanche of tourism are enough to conceal the cities within them. Like the head of this prefecture, Nagano city itself. But board a direct express train from Shinjuku, Tokyo for about three hours each way and a good book (Toshikazu Kawaguchi's 'Before The Coffee Gets Cold' (thank you, Mum and Dad)). Or a much quicker Shinkansen that will speed past the seasonal scenery in this Winter wonderland for double the price, but not the trouble. And you will find one of Japan's hidden gems that this writer didn't even know existed until he Googled it (taking time off his holiday planning, pre-resolution goal-setting, as the amount of flack I got for not taking a break is ironic. I don't need to go away, as I've been on so many guilt trips of late). Such a find you will even discover one of Japan's National Treasures.

Matsumoto Castle is a sight to behold. A World Heritage one in the land of the rising Fuji and classic castles like Nagoya's and the outstanding one in Osaka. Let alone all the temples and shrines that pedestrians take a daily (especially come this time of year) pilgrimage to in the city. But this one tops them all. Formerly Fukashi Castle and known to some as "Crow Castle" for its raven black exterior, it is among the big-three of Japanese castles alongside those in Himeji and Kumamoto. Dated from 1594 this National Historic Site surrounded by traditional Japanese red bridges and illuminated in neon this time of year, the castle walls speak the stories of Edo era Japanese history in all its earth, stone and wood. Still, stroll around the keep of one of the last twelve remaining original tenshu in Japan after you've taken those initial Instagrams and you'll really get a feel for this place. But breaching this castle without sneakers or shoes is where and how you will really see what this grand structure has to behold. Many travel blog and vloggers recommend warm socks because this castle's chestnut coloured wood floor is colder than the icy waters that moat surround it. But maybe bring a pinch of salt too. Or you might slip a disc coming back down the steepest staircases that feel like a hike expedition up the mountains in themselves. Just joking...please don't desecrate this treasure with dinner condiments. But this fortress built atypically not on hilltops or rivers, instead amongst the plains of flatland will wow you with it's extensive defence system of interconnecting walls and gateways for archers with Hawkeye marksman precision of position. Just like the impressive armoury display of donated muskets and Samurai regalia as this complex castle details the means that were took to defend itself. Yet its the place of peace in the wide windows of a balcony that takes in the whole city of Matsumoto and Nagano beyond that will really astonish you. Even after war those who fought still had the thought to appreciate the silence and beauty of transient things in this country and culture of "mono-no-aware".

Impermanence reminds us nothing lasts forever and to appreciate what we all have whilst it's still here. Sure you can move across this city in a day on your way to a ski-lodge or your way home off piste. But Matsumoto is more than its magnificent castle. Even the surrounding streets that may be corona closed up right now remind you of old America between Boston and Oregon or Yasukuni-dori Avenue, the ski shop ward of Tokyo between Akihabara's game digital love and the books of Jimbocho City. And it's the perfect place this time of year to enjoy some signature soba noodles. The length of these chopstick twirling suckers representing the wish for a long life in the new calendar. Another beautiful and subtle in its poignancy Japanese tradition like cleaning your place thoroughly to welcome in the New Year (I did the bathroom whilst getting back to that nine hour Beatles doc). There is another heritage building in the beautiful Kaichi School for your trips education and the streams of Mount Yake and Azusa creek are more than worth your time if you have a handful of days more. Mesmerising museums and gorgeous galleries could also adorn a weekend away with the one you adore. Whilst souvenirs and traditional temples can be scoured on Nawate Street that greets you with a newt that looks like something straight out a Studio Ghibli movie. Whilst the hot spring town of Asama Spa will soothe and warmly wash all your troubles away. Yet when it comes to this city, sister to homegrown Fujisawa, or the Salt Lake of America's Utah, surrounded by municipalities like Shiojiri and Asahi like the beer it's Nakamachi Street that is the 'Orange' of this 'Perfect World', word to the manga. The traditional town turned into a boutique of beautiful coffee houses and shops is windmill white and black in all its storied stone structure. These hobbled streets, cobbled together in defence of themselves. The criss-cross pattern punctuating 'Frog Street' will leave you wondering which way to leap as you take a look around. These old preserved kura store and warehouses are done so with much care and attention, so give it yours as you stroll slowly. From the top of the castle to these streets below, Matsumoto City still feels protected. But from traditional Kyoto to Kanazawa, outside of Osaka and Tokyo, there are not many more cities that truly represent the changing of Japan's guard quite like this. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: KANAZAWA, JAPAN

Tradition seeps through the pores of the streets of Kanazawa, Japan like rainwater through the cracks. There is beauty on every corner. From kimonos tied up in a beautiful bow, to the one you whisk away for a romantic weekend this Valentines (Happy Birthday). Posing so naturally, as pretty as a picture. So much scope like the spokes of the bicycles resting outside as you stop for green tea and matcha. Or locally brewed sake for your sommelier. So perfect and historic in all its 200 year ryokans and 400 trees that you could cry when you realize Kanazawa's worldwide beauty beyond the Far East even rivals Kyoto. But when the weather sheds a tear and the damp turns the dark wood to something cinematic by nightfall, this is when this town really becomes majestic in all its mesmerizing magic. But why pray for rain in this city when you and the one you hold close can put your hands together down the street for the sunlight of a new day?

Rain has it's benefits when it's not turning your umbrella and your frustration inside out with the wind. Apart from the vast farmland of this countryside city, this town has lots of museums (trust me). With architecture as amazing as New York's Guggenheim. The tourist highlight is for sure the 21st Century Museum Of Contemporary Art which really serves as a major cultural centre, demanding your awes attention. Michael Borremans and Mark Manders' 'Double Silence' exhibition is as epic as the "From Liverpool to Tokyo" John Lennon and Yoko Ono 'Double Fantasy' one back in Tokyo's rich Roppongi beneath its tower. As striking as the yellow blocks through the craniums of four female statues, this one will leave you speechless like all the amazing artwork given it's time and space in this building like real relationships and the connections you will make here. But once you take a dip (visual, not literal...just you try to dare) in 'The Swimming Pool' of Leandro Erlich for the main event of this gallery that people want to dive in, you will see from above as below, climbing the steel ladder of the coldest IG shot you'll take this trip. Surrounded by white walls that makes the sun shine even brighter for a minute you'll feel like your in the California gold of Los Angeles' Santa Monica off Venice Beach, or the talents of Miami's South Beach. But this twin city to Buffalo, NY among others is in Japan. A place with it's own beauty and purity. For every dream destination of Hawaii for the citizens of these cities, there's an outstanding Okinawa right at home for them. A stones throw. But skipping them when it comes to Kanazawa this is the place to Shinkansen surf to for a wonderful weekend. 

However if you prefer exhibits that make you question, as well as expand your mind, then why don't you take a train and taxi out to the outskirts where the amazing architecture of Nishida Kitaro lays out the formidable Bond lair or Batcave foundations of the inspired Ishikawa Museum of Philosophy and his life's work for the notebook, canvas and even Colombia gramophone record? Even with little English translation what this Japanese historian has done is not lost in translation. It helps if you have a great companion with you to communicate it all so compellingly. If you don't feel closer to the spirit of yourself after this one, you must be holding something back inside. The plastic chairs of the fifth floor balcony view lined up with an artist impression themselves also serve as the perfect viewpoint to ponder all of Kanazawa and the surrounding mountains before you. Kanazawa neighbours Nagano. A ski resort as sought after for the slopes as Okinawa is for the sun to bathe and bask. Which means Kanazawa is surrounded with the sort of beautiful border that landscapes all sorts of lasting memories for your muse. 

Right now in your 21st Century head back to the Contemporary Art Museum (because you can dip in and out at your pleasure and leisure with a day ticket), and you can see more on display. Like the Bunka Fashion Renaissance of 2021 which showcases the skills of students at university, outfitting their talents for the catwalk. Showing that the future of design is in Japan is in safe hands and seams, sewing needles between the lips. Just one of many outstanding displays here or contemporary art. Like the large black oval of Anish Kapoor that on a sloping concrete wall extending the entire breadth of the gallery with Jan Fabre's 'The Man Who Measures The Clouds' above, lifting a life, death and freedom evoking yardstick. 

But you didn't come all this way by bullet to spend all your time indoors. The real highlight of your trip like sun between the trees and shining leaves comes when you take a walk around the Kenroku-en Garden with greenery and views for miles you could walk for days. Seasons of your life even. From the signature cherry blossoms of Spring that are starting to bloom. To the red end leaves of Autumn every year in Japan falls into like a hallmark. This is one of the 'Three Great Gardens of Japan'. From the Kotojitoro lantern overlooking a pool of a pond so pure you won't be able to tell if you had your camera up the right way the reflection of Kasugimaike Pond or Hisagokie is so hauntingly real to the hallowed truth. Perfect paronamas made for watercolours of monumental mountains and the traits of this traditional town stroll and surround this landscape garden that dates back to the evoking Edo Period. This National Site of Special Scenic Beauty since 1985 (as long as this writer has been alive) is highlighted by the one of a kind Karasakinomatsu. The places between these pines tied together with rope that make them look like no other trees in Japan and especially Christmas ones, evident at most when 'tis the festive season.

Seasons greet you in this place like December 25th, but take the Ishikawamon back door gate to the Kanazawa Castle Park and a kingdom that even rivals the thrones in neighbouring Nagoya and the outstanding Osaka. No wonder these walls built in 1788 remain a National Important Cultural Property. There's so much to see here and do in Kanazawa, even for a couple of days weekend break for two. From the sublime shrine greeting you as you arrive at Kanazawa Station that looks like it could carry an Olympic torch with an eternal flame this year. To the Myouryuki Ninja Temple and the Nagamachi Samurai District, keeping pace with its winding long and winding roads to evade enemy attack. Or the Omicho Market in-between as you say oishi before making your way to the grand Geisha districts for the most traditonal Japanese beauty you'll see before you take the steps to the temple that greets you. Now you've had something to eat, how about somewhere to stay? Now it will take a little drive, or cab fare, but the magnificent Motoyu Ishiya is inspired. This Japanese inn is a 200 year ryokan that in evoking history elegantly will take you back to a time before from the tatami mat's to the view you slide the doors open for. Complete with postcard picturesque snow this season. This writer even finally had the balls (no pun intended) to use the soothing hot springs of an onsen (does someone always scrub your back, or was that just me?). But no traditional and theatrical stunning shows for your spotlight during corona sadly, but of course that's understandable. And when all the classic courses of your beautiful, traditional meal is an event in itself, your stage is set for an unforgettable night and a trip you'll always take in memory as you rest your head in reverie. Just open your dreaming eyes and see. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUDE: ENOSHIMA, JAPAN

Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path. 

Santa Monica surf shops. Miami art deco buildings for as far as the aforementioned Sea Candle can see for the perfect view of the city from dusk 'til dawn, night to day. Twilight to the fire in your eyes. With a vibe like neighbouring Kamakura, this is the place to catch waves like Hokusai or see miles of sand and shores before mountains more breathtaking than Keanu Reeves. But you best believe for all the similarities coast to coast, across the tracks, or the light of what's across the pond. Between the oceans, Enoshima has its own shimmering vibe. It's its own place. One that will have you falling faster than quicksand (but don't worry, there's none of that here). I'd barely even left the station and I was already in love with Enoshima. Almost as beautiful as the one I met there. Even the station is a shrine. Like all that is wonderful and traditional about Japan and the rest of the watching world from the horizon. From Okinawa to the place most Japanese love to visit abroad, Hawaii. But why leave when you can have it here? A place that rivals Japan's big city of  Tokyo, bright lights of Osaka and even the most beautiful city in the world of Kyoto for your next destination. The home of the best people and the place you should take your favourite person to too.

Inspired. This small island off the Shōnan coast off the Kanagawa prefecture is perfect. Part of mainland Fujisawa and among the closest beaches to the busy hubs of Tokyo and this writer's new home in Yokohama. Holding influence for artists from writers to painters colouring the water. We could write for days about this. We think or proclaim you should walk for miles. Through all the cobbled streets and traditional towns. Private owned coffee shops and local restaurants that deserve your business, masks on...especially in these turbulent times. Scaling this lands many peaks is worth your hiking pilgrimage. Especially to see the Enoshima Shrine itself honoring Benzaiten. The Buddhist goddess of music and entertainment who rose this city from the bottom of the sea in the sixth century herself. But how about the valleys? Time to dwell deeper into the Iwaya Caves and see real natural beauty in all its haunting hallmarks and history. Do you feel like the sole of your sneakers is getting bruised? Feet need a warm soak? Then why not tread water in the Enospa hot springs for the rest of your trip? Set to warm you like miso. From the hallowed Hakone to the nourishing Nikko you won't feel much more relaxed than this. And after all isn't that the true meaning, nature and heart of the word, "vacation"? Let Enoshima soothe your soul. Like the one of this British beat writer after being shown around the 19th century English style Samuel Cocking Garden by a wonderful woman and word traveller, local to it all, who had already shown me everything. Take a look at the shining beacon from the lighthouse. This Summer island doesn't just illuminate at Christmas. It's vibrant in its own electricity all year round. Mark your calenders for when all this settles and take a break. When it comes to beauty, Enoshima is that meaning. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: NIKKO, JAPAN

Murakami's, "the trees brilliant with crimson leaves" before, "Winter readies to lay siege" as the legendary Japanese writer says in his 1985 novel, 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World' prose puts it perfectly. Fall through Nikko this Autumn and you will see Japan like you never have before...even if you've been here a year. This has the makings of a lifetime like an experience just like that, just this once. The perfect country to city, shrine to neon alternative to Tokyo, Osaka, or Yokohama. Just a short train trip (and a vintage locomotive chugging along too) through beautiful scenery that you wish it was longer from the Kansai or Kanagawa region. Nikko is Kyoto beautiful with Hakone peace and Nara individual tradition. Although it's not deer that roam Nikko, but red leaves. Sixties, Los Angeles collective the Mamas and the Papas once sang, "all the leaves are brown" on their iconic classic, 'California Dreaming'. You'll find some that way here, but not a single grey sky right now. Forget about if you were in LA, you'll be Nikko dreaming once you leave this place. As the golden sunlight honey shines through all the red and brown. Just like reflections through a glass jar half full of maple syrup. Running slowly like caramel off a spoon, right through your day.

An old Japanese proverb says, "think nothing splendid, until you've seen Nikko". And oh how you should treat this as gospel. Wonderful waterfalls cascade down the cracks in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture that as an unofficial wonder of the world, but an official World Heritage Site, is without fault. All the way down to the shallows of the hot springs that you will hotel soothe and bathe in until your heart is as content as your calmness. The water is so pure here this really is tranquility for your meditation in this country of Buddhism and polite people. Enshrined here are the remains of a God. Ieyasu. The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate declared holy at his 1616 passing by the imperial court, Ieyasu was also known as the Tosho Daigongen, AKA, 'The Great Incarnation That Illuminates The East'...and oh how he does in all of Nikko's vibrancy. That's history, the rest is your story as you begin to see in this text message world that the 'hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil' monkeys are actually legend and not just another emoji for your emotionless pickle jar. Monkey see, monkey tweet. 

Sacred bridges are about as stranger to Japan as convenience stores and vending machines, but the Shinkyo Bridge is about as hallowed as Shinjuku is electric. So much so you have to pay a toll to walk across. Now that's one selfie that isn't free. What more could you expect when Buddhist priest Shodo crossed the river in 766 on the back of two huge serpents to find the temple Rinnoji? A temple were you'll be greeted by a Buddah of paradise, a Goddess of mercy and a protector of animals, complete with a horses head like 'The Godfather'. Snakes people...two large snakes. What's a couple of hundred yen? An offer you can't refuse? The bridge itself that has survived being washed away is only a five minute bus ride from Tobu Nikko Station to the right, or a quarter of an hour walk of you get to stepping. Surrounded by statues and yellow and red leaves, all the brown and grey is pastel to your water colours for your sketchbooks or artist minds impressions. As no photo you take could give this place justice...and I'm not just saying that because my mobile phone ran out of battery like I didn't plug it in the night before. Stone steps cut through this land and take you to the heritage of more sublime shrines and the white horse entrance of those three cheeky little monkeys. Shine through to the 'Gate Of Sunlight' and the Yomeimon Gate in all it's bronze beauty, gold and Gatsby gaudy is unlike any other shrine you'll see in this country. These lions, tigers and dragons oh my that rise like a phoenix are a National Treasure after all. Come walk and see for yourself. Don't leave here before you enter the Chinese gate of the Karamon too, or the Gate Of The Sleeping Cat that purs like neighbors called Totoro and all the waterfalls you'll chase as these rivers and lakes you'll never get use to. The tender loving care this place is made from and will make for you is just the R and R you've been waiting for. Especially in the most stressful year when we can finally travel again. Enjoy it too in season whilst you still can, as like Haruki Murakami also says in 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland', "in due time, Autumn too vanishes". Nikko is like no other. When it comes to this type of leaf, you'll never want to leave. Splendid! TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: NAGOYA, JAPAN

NASA. Houston, we have a problem. Or is that more like Nagoya? There looks like there is a rocket taking off in the middle of this city between Tokyo and Kyoto like a bullet. Come Shinkansen see for yourself in this 'Go To Travel' campaign this Silver Week which is a nice podium finish, runner up to Japan's Summer Golden Week that was cancelled like their capital city Tokyo's hosting of the 2020 Olympics (that is until next year). The launched Nagoya TV Tower is picking up all the stations in the perfect location in the heart of Hisaya Odori Park. Tune in. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques of serious shopping and coffee housing (from brands like Tommy Hillfiger to subsidiary stores like Ralph's Coffee...Lauren not Wiggum), this mini Eiffell is the face of Nagoya like the Kobe Tower or landmark one here at home in Yokohama are their own cities points of interest like dropping a Google pin on the map. Dragonflys dance on the patch of grass with children chasing to catch them, were locals and tourists alike sit together propping up their phones on their Starbucks cups took out to take a selfie with their new tall friend in the background. Whilst a mini mall of water comes complete with steam showers that giggling kids reach out to touch...adults too. But then everyone stops around every quarter of an hour for their Instagram's 15 minutes of fame. As for the frame the white skeleton of this structure turns red like neighbouring Tokyo Tower and video screen plays patterns like Times Square does King Kong sized commercials. That's when everyone drops were they've shopped in this Californian chic that looks like something out of Santa Monica in the day. But the Tully's and British pub inspired Hub's (you'll never see a classier one than the one at the feet of this T.V. stand...and that's saying something) give it away. It makes for one stunning skyline seen at a platform distance at another park across the road. This place has as much grass as it has neon you'll be taken even higher. There's even a "Central Park" my New Yorkers. Time to be a Nagoyan.

Houston-or whatever your name is-it turns out there actually is an actual rocket just lying around in the middle of the city. Near yet another park (let's hear it for green spaces people), the City Science Museum has one from the space race grounded here like it's about to go off across from the carriage of one of those old green trams that used to get you A to B across the cities scope. The museum is a must, even if at one day I deemed it time constraints, back burner, next day. Hey, in my defence I'm not sure what inside would be more impressive than a real rocket outside...they've kind of shot themselves in the foot. But if you have more than a science's lesson worth of time in Nagoya than you should concentrate on this place that has a Futuroscope (Paris, France. Google) like silver orb that kind of looks like a giants gym workout ball, or an alien ship the way it's parked, not landed in the heart of the city, corner pocket. Still if tradition captivates you more than history than why not take a compelling look at both and storm the walls and some drain, typhoon resevoir moving moats of Nagoya Castle. If you found yourself drawn to the bridge of Osaka Castle than you'll be game for this throne and the wisdom and warriors that surround it like the stories told. Whilst nothings hotter for a bite and drink later than the Nagoya Castle BBQ Park. Complete like something out of the States, but no mead for your medieval times taste to get you in an actual state. You will have to "settle" for Sake or a Bud. 

At Nagoya there's still so much more to see in a place many Japanese who are used to it call boring, but most tourists will be pleasantly surprised at just how many big cities the land of the rising sun has set for your itinerary. Just pinpoint all the 'Be Kobe' like '@ Nagoya' signs Instagram ready when someone's kids aren't climbing over it, or one couple is taking a thousand selfies to get the right one for the right number of likes, despite all the hate given for those waiting so long their phone loses battery (not me...honest). Like the neon that keeps turning on the spinning staple of ferris wheels in every Japanese city. Or the petals (that lit up by candles at night look like you have to walk across hot coals to break on to the other side) that float in the pools of another shopping mall view of the heart of the city that will beat with D.J. music and drinks after hours. That's after you've squeezed into one of Nagoya's narrow food corridors (even my apartment is wider) and stuffed yourself so much you have to squeeze just to fit in your jeans the next day. That almost sounds philosophical...it's not. Talking about being out of shape is like talking about practice for the answer. This place has poetry in the city though. A sign in the middle of all the towers and beer ones in Hisaya Odori Park tells us this was the birthplace in 1684 of haiku poet Basho's style from 'A Winter's Day'. Chapter and verse from its hallmark history to its millennial modern day, the nuanced Nagoya has more to offer you as the capital of Japan's Aichi Prefecture. Central Honshu's manufacturing and shipping hub is about to be a mainstream and shopping one as it reaches for promotional prominence like the iron of its tower does the stars. Some cities in the land of the rising sun relax after dark like the traditions of the most beautiful place in the world, Kyoto. Some others like an anagram of Tokyo shine in all its neon like a brand new day. Now Nagoya, the largest city in the Chubu region and one of the 50 largest urban area in the world is about to get bigger in Japan. TIM DAVID HARVEY.