Mountains surround Matsumoto in the Japanese prefecture of Nagano. Right now this naturally sublime skyline is no stranger to skiers and those who prefer boarding without wheels and pavement this snow season. Making the most of it until the sensational sakura season comes into pink and white blossoming bloom. These skyscraper dwarfing monoliths in an avalanche of tourism are enough to conceal the cities within them. Like the head of this prefecture, Nagano city itself. But board a direct express train from Shinjuku, Tokyo for about three hours each way and a good book (Toshikazu Kawaguchi's 'Before The Coffee Gets Cold' (thank you, Mum and Dad)). Or a much quicker Shinkansen that will speed past the seasonal scenery in this Winter wonderland for double the price, but not the trouble. And you will find one of Japan's hidden gems that this writer didn't even know existed until he Googled it (taking time off his holiday planning, pre-resolution goal-setting, as the amount of flack I got for not taking a break is ironic. I don't need to go away, as I've been on so many guilt trips of late). Such a find you will even discover one of Japan's National Treasures.
Matsumoto Castle is a sight to behold. A World Heritage one in the land of the rising Fuji and classic castles like Nagoya's and the outstanding one in Osaka. Let alone all the temples and shrines that pedestrians take a daily (especially come this time of year) pilgrimage to in the city. But this one tops them all. Formerly Fukashi Castle and known to some as "Crow Castle" for its raven black exterior, it is among the big-three of Japanese castles alongside those in Himeji and Kumamoto. Dated from 1594 this National Historic Site surrounded by traditional Japanese red bridges and illuminated in neon this time of year, the castle walls speak the stories of Edo era Japanese history in all its earth, stone and wood. Still, stroll around the keep of one of the last twelve remaining original tenshu in Japan after you've taken those initial Instagrams and you'll really get a feel for this place. But breaching this castle without sneakers or shoes is where and how you will really see what this grand structure has to behold. Many travel blog and vloggers recommend warm socks because this castle's chestnut coloured wood floor is colder than the icy waters that moat surround it. But maybe bring a pinch of salt too. Or you might slip a disc coming back down the steepest staircases that feel like a hike expedition up the mountains in themselves. Just joking...please don't desecrate this treasure with dinner condiments. But this fortress built atypically not on hilltops or rivers, instead amongst the plains of flatland will wow you with it's extensive defence system of interconnecting walls and gateways for archers with Hawkeye marksman precision of position. Just like the impressive armoury display of donated muskets and Samurai regalia as this complex castle details the means that were took to defend itself. Yet its the place of peace in the wide windows of a balcony that takes in the whole city of Matsumoto and Nagano beyond that will really astonish you. Even after war those who fought still had the thought to appreciate the silence and beauty of transient things in this country and culture of "mono-no-aware".
Impermanence reminds us nothing lasts forever and to appreciate what we all have whilst it's still here. Sure you can move across this city in a day on your way to a ski-lodge or your way home off piste. But Matsumoto is more than its magnificent castle. Even the surrounding streets that may be corona closed up right now remind you of old America between Boston and Oregon or Yasukuni-dori Avenue, the ski shop ward of Tokyo between Akihabara's game digital love and the books of Jimbocho City. And it's the perfect place this time of year to enjoy some signature soba noodles. The length of these chopstick twirling suckers representing the wish for a long life in the new calendar. Another beautiful and subtle in its poignancy Japanese tradition like cleaning your place thoroughly to welcome in the New Year (I did the bathroom whilst getting back to that nine hour Beatles doc). There is another heritage building in the beautiful Kaichi School for your trips education and the streams of Mount Yake and Azusa creek are more than worth your time if you have a handful of days more. Mesmerising museums and gorgeous galleries could also adorn a weekend away with the one you adore. Whilst souvenirs and traditional temples can be scoured on Nawate Street that greets you with a newt that looks like something straight out a Studio Ghibli movie. Whilst the hot spring town of Asama Spa will soothe and warmly wash all your troubles away. Yet when it comes to this city, sister to homegrown Fujisawa, or the Salt Lake of America's Utah, surrounded by municipalities like Shiojiri and Asahi like the beer it's Nakamachi Street that is the 'Orange' of this 'Perfect World', word to the manga. The traditional town turned into a boutique of beautiful coffee houses and shops is windmill white and black in all its storied stone structure. These hobbled streets, cobbled together in defence of themselves. The criss-cross pattern punctuating 'Frog Street' will leave you wondering which way to leap as you take a look around. These old preserved kura store and warehouses are done so with much care and attention, so give it yours as you stroll slowly. From the top of the castle to these streets below, Matsumoto City still feels protected. But from traditional Kyoto to Kanazawa, outside of Osaka and Tokyo, there are not many more cities that truly represent the changing of Japan's guard quite like this. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
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