TRAVEL GUIDE: NARA, JAPAN

Deerest Nara, forgive me. This won't be the only reference I steer to towards here. These animals are to the traditional town of Nara what neon is to Tokyo, or temples to Kyoto. It's like they're getting ready for Christmas out here, on Donner, on Blitzen. Sure there's more to this land under the rising sun than antlers and the biscuits these deers hunt like Robert De Niro. But from the traditional temples to the stunning shrines, nothing draws you in like holding your hand out than what surrounds all these iconic landmarks in a town as traditonal and  beautiful as its nearest Kyoto. Take a train from the 'Black Rain' of Osaka in just around a half hour and the camera roll of photo dumped pictures you take on your phone will look like you are trying to film the live action remake of Disney's Bambi. Your memory card might be busy, but all is calm in this peaceful and tranquil city as elegant and docile as the friendly deer that will even offer the hallmark Japanese bow to you after you do the same with a biscuit. Except the one I fed...cheeky bastard!

Coronavirus has kept the tourists at bay this year which sweetly and sadly has lead the confused deer venturing and strolling into the center of town looking for food (imagine standing in a queue at Lawson behind one). But it's also been for good as keeping safe and sound at home in lockdown has lead to some of these deer having better and more natural, healthy diets. So the next time you see these magnificent creatures they might be benched and henched beasts ready to straight steal swipe your food, all headlock, no bow (who's the bastard now hey?). Beware! Like kids crying, getting chased by these young bucks for tuck. There's no need to fear the deer like the Milwaukee Bucks though. These creatures creed is tranquility. Sure a couple barged and bashed each other a little but by accident as I brought out the biscuits like it was time for tea...but half these guys in their own quarantine haven't eaten anything more than grass for months. They don't need to bow this time...although it truly is a sight to behold from Japan's national treasure that have been protected since the 8th century. Still venture out the tourist trap-fenced in by antlers-of Nara Park and the strip of coffee and tourist shops for your souvenirs and restaurants for your own biscuit like feast after feeding the fur. And as you go further along the path to Buddhist temples and shrines of city and colour for the country of the rising red dot like the flag you will see even more beauty to behold as old as time.

Pilgrimage your way through the gravel and stone steps to these temple shrines to Japan legend and legacy and you'll be met by a giant statue of a deer...which if you're a little timid when it comes to these shy specimens may leave you feeling a little 'Planet Of The Apes' like (but save that for the damn monkey island), because at this point you'll have passed so many Bambinos every corner you turn out of Nara Park that you'll believe you're in their world. That's because you are. There's more deer in the nuanced Nara than there are vending machines or conbinis in your average city in Japan. As hallowed as Hakone and the still torji gate subtly to the side of Lake Ashi, the closer you get to those religious blessings you'll be greeted by even younger deer. Babies a long way from the tourists snapping smartphones and eager stroking like keys fingers. These kids may prance and skip away the moment you try and say hello...but oh deer (there it is) how they're cute. You may wish to reach out though like calling an old friend, because Nara's deer are said to be an ancient symbol of good luck as they walk around all the traditional temples like they quaintly own this sacred place (they do). These deer folk are also according to Japanese legend messengers from the God's. And you will feel closer to it. Like this writer not wanting to leave this sacred place which will stay with you. Some trips you just really fall for. They change you. Feel like a moment of conception. From Paris to New York I've been to my fair share of towns and cities I would move to tomorrow in the drop of hat, but I've always been happy to come back home at the end of each vacation. But this trip left me falling for it and wanting more like lost love. As a matter of fact on the last night sitting outside a Starbucks overlooking the still water of a lake beneath us, reflecting the shadows of the sitting and sleeping deer taking shelter from the falling sun and fading tourists. As the evening turned into twilight under the trees above, I was reading Japanese born and British raised writer Kazou Ishiguro's Nobel Prize in Literature winning, 'The Remains Of The Day' thinking of home in the Far East. Ishiguro's 'Remains' novel was turned into a classic film starring Anthony Hopkins, Emma Thompson and the late, great Superman, Christopher Reeve. One of my Nan's favourite films and a compelling chapter by chapter read I picked up because of the country to country travelling residence and what the movie meant to the family member who I wouldn't have got this far in this country without. On what seemed like a night like no other, but what I remembered and realized after my parents reminded me was what would have been her 90th birthday three days after my 35th, celebrating on a trip I took thanks to their own gracious gift of it. Coincidence or meant? So for that let me close with my own message to the spirit like this place. Dear Nan. Happy Birthday. I love you. TIM DAVID HARVEY.