Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path.
Travel Guide & Tips For Holiday Makers To Backpackers By Tim David Harvey. Or Follow on Twitter, Facebook, Instagram & Pinterest @TimDavidHarvey or Contact tdharvey@hotmail.co.uk
Tuesday, 12 January 2021
TRAVEL GUDE: ENOSHIMA, JAPAN
Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path.
Monday, 9 November 2020
TRAVEL GUIDE: NIKKO, JAPAN
Murakami's, "the trees brilliant with crimson leaves" before, "Winter readies to lay siege" as the legendary Japanese writer says in his 1985 novel, 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World' prose puts it perfectly. Fall through Nikko this Autumn and you will see Japan like you never have before...even if you've been here a year. This has the makings of a lifetime like an experience just like that, just this once. The perfect country to city, shrine to neon alternative to Tokyo, Osaka, or Yokohama. Just a short train trip (and a vintage locomotive chugging along too) through beautiful scenery that you wish it was longer from the Kansai or Kanagawa region. Nikko is Kyoto beautiful with Hakone peace and Nara individual tradition. Although it's not deer that roam Nikko, but red leaves. Sixties, Los Angeles collective the Mamas and the Papas once sang, "all the leaves are brown" on their iconic classic, 'California Dreaming'. You'll find some that way here, but not a single grey sky right now. Forget about if you were in LA, you'll be Nikko dreaming once you leave this place. As the golden sunlight honey shines through all the red and brown. Just like reflections through a glass jar half full of maple syrup. Running slowly like caramel off a spoon, right through your day.
An old Japanese proverb says, "think nothing splendid, until you've seen Nikko". And oh how you should treat this as gospel. Wonderful waterfalls cascade down the cracks in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture that as an unofficial wonder of the world, but an official World Heritage Site, is without fault. All the way down to the shallows of the hot springs that you will hotel soothe and bathe in until your heart is as content as your calmness. The water is so pure here this really is tranquility for your meditation in this country of Buddhism and polite people. Enshrined here are the remains of a God. Ieyasu. The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate declared holy at his 1616 passing by the imperial court, Ieyasu was also known as the Tosho Daigongen, AKA, 'The Great Incarnation That Illuminates The East'...and oh how he does in all of Nikko's vibrancy. That's history, the rest is your story as you begin to see in this text message world that the 'hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil' monkeys are actually legend and not just another emoji for your emotionless pickle jar. Monkey see, monkey tweet.
Sacred bridges are about as stranger to Japan as convenience stores and vending machines, but the Shinkyo Bridge is about as hallowed as Shinjuku is electric. So much so you have to pay a toll to walk across. Now that's one selfie that isn't free. What more could you expect when Buddhist priest Shodo crossed the river in 766 on the back of two huge serpents to find the temple Rinnoji? A temple were you'll be greeted by a Buddah of paradise, a Goddess of mercy and a protector of animals, complete with a horses head like 'The Godfather'. Snakes people...two large snakes. What's a couple of hundred yen? An offer you can't refuse? The bridge itself that has survived being washed away is only a five minute bus ride from Tobu Nikko Station to the right, or a quarter of an hour walk of you get to stepping. Surrounded by statues and yellow and red leaves, all the brown and grey is pastel to your water colours for your sketchbooks or artist minds impressions. As no photo you take could give this place justice...and I'm not just saying that because my mobile phone ran out of battery like I didn't plug it in the night before. Stone steps cut through this land and take you to the heritage of more sublime shrines and the white horse entrance of those three cheeky little monkeys. Shine through to the 'Gate Of Sunlight' and the Yomeimon Gate in all it's bronze beauty, gold and Gatsby gaudy is unlike any other shrine you'll see in this country. These lions, tigers and dragons oh my that rise like a phoenix are a National Treasure after all. Come walk and see for yourself. Don't leave here before you enter the Chinese gate of the Karamon too, or the Gate Of The Sleeping Cat that purs like neighbors called Totoro and all the waterfalls you'll chase as these rivers and lakes you'll never get use to. The tender loving care this place is made from and will make for you is just the R and R you've been waiting for. Especially in the most stressful year when we can finally travel again. Enjoy it too in season whilst you still can, as like Haruki Murakami also says in 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland', "in due time, Autumn too vanishes". Nikko is like no other. When it comes to this type of leaf, you'll never want to leave. Splendid! TIM DAVID HARVEY.
Tuesday, 22 September 2020
TRAVEL GUIDE: NAGOYA, JAPAN
NASA. Houston, we have a problem. Or is that more like Nagoya? There looks like there is a rocket taking off in the middle of this city between Tokyo and Kyoto like a bullet. Come Shinkansen see for yourself in this 'Go To Travel' campaign this Silver Week which is a nice podium finish, runner up to Japan's Summer Golden Week that was cancelled like their capital city Tokyo's hosting of the 2020 Olympics (that is until next year). The launched Nagoya TV Tower is picking up all the stations in the perfect location in the heart of Hisaya Odori Park. Tune in. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques of serious shopping and coffee housing (from brands like Tommy Hillfiger to subsidiary stores like Ralph's Coffee...Lauren not Wiggum), this mini Eiffell is the face of Nagoya like the Kobe Tower or landmark one here at home in Yokohama are their own cities points of interest like dropping a Google pin on the map. Dragonflys dance on the patch of grass with children chasing to catch them, were locals and tourists alike sit together propping up their phones on their Starbucks cups took out to take a selfie with their new tall friend in the background. Whilst a mini mall of water comes complete with steam showers that giggling kids reach out to touch...adults too. But then everyone stops around every quarter of an hour for their Instagram's 15 minutes of fame. As for the frame the white skeleton of this structure turns red like neighbouring Tokyo Tower and video screen plays patterns like Times Square does King Kong sized commercials. That's when everyone drops were they've shopped in this Californian chic that looks like something out of Santa Monica in the day. But the Tully's and British pub inspired Hub's (you'll never see a classier one than the one at the feet of this T.V. stand...and that's saying something) give it away. It makes for one stunning skyline seen at a platform distance at another park across the road. This place has as much grass as it has neon you'll be taken even higher. There's even a "Central Park" my New Yorkers. Time to be a Nagoyan.
Saturday, 25 July 2020
TRAVEL GUIDE: NARA, JAPAN
Coronavirus has kept the tourists at bay this year which sweetly and sadly has lead the confused deer venturing and strolling into the center of town looking for food (imagine standing in a queue at Lawson behind one). But it's also been for good as keeping safe and sound at home in lockdown has lead to some of these deer having better and more natural, healthy diets. So the next time you see these magnificent creatures they might be benched and henched beasts ready to straight steal swipe your food, all headlock, no bow (who's the bastard now hey?). Beware! Like kids crying, getting chased by these young bucks for tuck. There's no need to fear the deer like the Milwaukee Bucks though. These creatures creed is tranquility. Sure a couple barged and bashed each other a little but by accident as I brought out the biscuits like it was time for tea...but half these guys in their own quarantine haven't eaten anything more than grass for months. They don't need to bow this time...although it truly is a sight to behold from Japan's national treasure that have been protected since the 8th century. Still venture out the tourist trap-fenced in by antlers-of Nara Park and the strip of coffee and tourist shops for your souvenirs and restaurants for your own biscuit like feast after feeding the fur. And as you go further along the path to Buddhist temples and shrines of city and colour for the country of the rising red dot like the flag you will see even more beauty to behold as old as time.
Pilgrimage your way through the gravel and stone steps to these temple shrines to Japan legend and legacy and you'll be met by a giant statue of a deer...which if you're a little timid when it comes to these shy specimens may leave you feeling a little 'Planet Of The Apes' like (but save that for the damn monkey island), because at this point you'll have passed so many Bambinos every corner you turn out of Nara Park that you'll believe you're in their world. That's because you are. There's more deer in the nuanced Nara than there are vending machines or conbinis in your average city in Japan. As hallowed as Hakone and the still torji gate subtly to the side of Lake Ashi, the closer you get to those religious blessings you'll be greeted by even younger deer. Babies a long way from the tourists snapping smartphones and eager stroking like keys fingers. These kids may prance and skip away the moment you try and say hello...but oh deer (there it is) how they're cute. You may wish to reach out though like calling an old friend, because Nara's deer are said to be an ancient symbol of good luck as they walk around all the traditional temples like they quaintly own this sacred place (they do). These deer folk are also according to Japanese legend messengers from the God's. And you will feel closer to it. Like this writer not wanting to leave this sacred place which will stay with you. Some trips you just really fall for. They change you. Feel like a moment of conception. From Paris to New York I've been to my fair share of towns and cities I would move to tomorrow in the drop of hat, but I've always been happy to come back home at the end of each vacation. But this trip left me falling for it and wanting more like lost love. As a matter of fact on the last night sitting outside a Starbucks overlooking the still water of a lake beneath us, reflecting the shadows of the sitting and sleeping deer taking shelter from the falling sun and fading tourists. As the evening turned into twilight under the trees above, I was reading Japanese born and British raised writer Kazou Ishiguro's Nobel Prize in Literature winning, 'The Remains Of The Day' thinking of home in the Far East. Ishiguro's 'Remains' novel was turned into a classic film starring Anthony Hopkins, Emma Thompson and the late, great Superman, Christopher Reeve. One of my Nan's favourite films and a compelling chapter by chapter read I picked up because of the country to country travelling residence and what the movie meant to the family member who I wouldn't have got this far in this country without. On what seemed like a night like no other, but what I remembered and realized after my parents reminded me was what would have been her 90th birthday three days after my 35th, celebrating on a trip I took thanks to their own gracious gift of it. Coincidence or meant? So for that let me close with my own message to the spirit like this place. Dear Nan. Happy Birthday. I love you. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
Friday, 20 March 2020
TRAVEL GUIDE: HAKONE, JAPAN
And that's fine. This is fine.
I can tell you that the Hakone Yumoto station area has more falls than Niagara and is full of life. Even if rocks fallen from last years terrible typhoon means the trains only run one way. Don't worry this mountainous town of somewhat social isolation isn't 'Shining' on some "you can't leave", Stephen King horror tip. There's always the good ol'rail replacement service that all us Brits know all too well. I can tell you that the gorgeous Gora Park full of fountains (one that amongst all this anxiety brought me the most perfect peace I've had for a half hour in years), stonewalks, cafes and craft shops. Not to mention a cracking egg and Douglas fir. Surrounded by levels of moonbeams no matter the season is clock on time well worth the price of the 550 yen admission...unless you wisely invested in the Shinkansen like Romancecar Hakone free day pass that will cable car take you to all sorts of highs and sights in this city with more peaks than Laura Palmer. I can tell you this because it's right next to the hotel I bunkered down in as soon as I could check in. The Hotel Merveille Gora, with its faithful staff still working at this time, deserving of their pay and your business. Having your bag ready and waiting in your at home room once you've checked in following leaving your luggage with a tag until that time. It really is the little things.
But something didn't feel right. And I'm not talking about the flawless hotel service. As beautiful and bountiful as this amazing place, Hakone, the hallmark of Japan, it didn't feel right. Especially with the current Coranavirus planet pandemic of panic and actual evidence to justify this anxiety Donald Trump and Boris Johnson. The whole world is practically quarantined right now and although where it began in China and where it headed right after in Japan (on the cruise ship of the Diamond Princess on the port of Yokohama, the city where this writer teaching English for a year here resides no less) seems to have against the odds avoided another surge. And despite some closures and cancellations they are still biding their time despite the backlash to their decision on the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo which could unite the world that doesn't shake hands anymore (with good reason) like this country if Corona bows out by then. It's always better to be safe than sorry...and ill. As you know what they say, you can never be too careful. And as we wash our hands and hopefully leave some hand sanitizer for someone else instead of sitting on a throne of toilet paper and keyboard warrior shaming into submission the workers that can't not go to work in fear of losing their home (and there's not enough rolls to go round to build another fort with), truer words have never been spoken. You should always listen to your elders...and boy should you respect them too. It didn't feel right being here on this trip I booked way before Tom Hanks and the NBA and not the scientists that we should have listened to made the world lock down, sit up on our sofas and take notice. Even trying to get away from all the hustle and bustle, it just didn't feel right with the risk of infecting someone, who cares about what happens to me in regards to what I get to see. I've already seen enough. I made a mistake. I shouldn't make more. I teach everyday in the city. In a building next to the main trainline to the town and airport services. I teach one-on-one in a room, with a mask at your request even though I'm not ill. But we could be. It takes five days to manifest. Idris Elba and Kevin Durant have it with no symptoms. And we've all had that one cough we tried to stifle before people shift in their seats on the train. And I'm British, although I can try to keep calm and carry on, my friends and family have it much worse back home when they thought at first that I was in a worse place. Turns out we all our. With friends social distancing and staying at home to the risk of their jobs let alone their mental welfare this seems like warfare as once again online people would rather put down for likes than come together for love. But saying that just look at what your local community does beautifully for each other. So enough about me, because it's about that. So I stayed in the hotel for the night. Took a bath and took it to the mattresses with Mario Puzo's 'The Godfather'. Definitely not venturing to the hot springs this town is famous for although meeting someone who has just cycled here from Kyoto over four days (now that's strength over struggle inspiring) left me wanting to learn more. Called it a night, hit the hay and was on the next bus back home the next day to go back to Yokohama and hunker down to read and write like I do. I'll see Hakone in all its Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji glory again. And we can read all about it then.
I'll be back. Our health at great risk if we don't take precautions and the health of those around us family and stranger might not be.
What's more important? Instagram or real influence? Likes or who you love?
Stay safe out there. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
Wednesday, 26 February 2020
TRAVEL GUIDE: KAMAKURA, JAPAN
Waves caught by surfers catch you as you boardwalk this town that feels like the border that frames all your favourite Japanese art prints and pins. The wind in Kamakura was so bad the weekend I went I was getting hit by waves from the sea and I wasn't even walking on the beach. It felt I was getting slapped in the face by Hokusai. But what a way to wake up. Most mornings on this salary side of Japan you expect to be surrounded by suits walking round the temples and traditional terrace houses, not Speedos. But this is Kamakura, where the hair is slicked back with salt water not gel. The beach and the walk with the tide licking your feet is beyond beautiful. But if your surf is all the way up to the shore, by nightfall you can see an iconic look of Mount Fuji. A vivid view that takes your breath away as much as hiking up there. Just a stones throw away from Tokyo and a skim of just under a half hour away on the train from Yokohama, this is the perfect getaway for both if you're visiting Japan, or if you live there between the rat race hustle and bustle of neon and all that's lost in translation...trust me.
Medieval Japan's political center there are still traditions to the past in temple to this land of the rising suns legendary legacy just like there is between all the convenience stores and bright advertising lights through this nuanced, neon nation. But the biggest draw is the biggest Buddah you've seen this side of Hong Kong. Millions upon millions make the pilgrimage to see and praise it everyday, bowing and giving thanks. And with more Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines than you can see a day then why don't you stay? The Kōtoku-in feels like a local finalist for a world wonder if you really want to have your breath taken away between all the sea air and cherry blossom petals that will Sakura soon fall between it, for what will make the perfect Instagram picture, but what's more, life experience. Daibutsu IS Japan. A 15th century tsunami destroyed a temple that surrounded the Buddah completely, but with his home destroyed the Buddah still stood, survived and stands to this day, hundreds upon hundreds of years later. Is there anything more that subtly and symbolically speaks to the resiliency of this reserved but revelatory nation under the rising sun?
Gozan. Kamakura is also home to the Five Great Zen Temples and we all know how significant that number is to the beauty of Buddhism. Their proposal for having some of their landmark locations added to the atlas of World Heritage Sights needs to be made matrimony without even having to get down on one knee. And how about it? With itinerary highlights like the Tsurugaoka Hachimangū and how from your walking entrance it almost looks like two temples stacked on top of each other. Or the Kyoto circular world's view of the gardens of the Megetsuin Temple. And if you want to talk about this lands most traditional town than how about the Hokokuji Temple and its epic entrance of beautiful bamboo? The Great Kantō earthquake in 1923 almost levelled this city, but brick by brick, pillar by pillar, strength to strength what did we tell you about this nation that rebuilds more than the New York Knicks? This shogunate, former defacto capital of Japan with Nice and Nashville as it's French and USA sister cities, from its green traditional trains like a San Francisco tram, to the Californian like hills that lead to gold like the end of a rainbow is this nations treasure like the page of a Murakami book, or the brush of a waves stroke. If Tokyo is the pulse and Kyoto the heart, then Kamakura is the soul. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
Monday, 16 December 2019
TRAVEL GUIDE: KOBE, JAPAN
Open the literal translation of "God's door" and Kobe will literally show you heaven like Marie McKie's 'Days Of Thunder'. Not only that but also like fellow port town Yokohama a place that shows Japan is more than the big three of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A short train ride and even quicker Bullet from the latter two.
Or if you're interested in Japan's inspiration of 80's Americana (you should 'Kramer Versus Kramer' check out their 'Born On The Fourth Of July' Netflix right now if you don't already have one of those VPN altering apps), this place feels like a quiet Providence in-between Boston buildings. Only to feel in parts like the talents of South Beach when you make it to the Miami like port. Or the California of a cool San Diego all the way up the cable car bus like San Francisco hilly streets back to the Santa Monica dream meets Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles rich sidewalks of the New Orleans esque Kobe Jazz street where all cultures connect like good food and music. Until the traditional temples of the old meets neon new Japan confirm you're still set in the land of the rising sun.
Still from the jazz to the port like drinking to the sounds of the city, it's these two extremes that Kobe is all about. Save hiking the hills of Mount Rokkō, or bathing your feet after that walk in the Aroma Onsen. But cross the LGBT everyone's welcome rainbow like Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge to the Harborland and you'll find the heart of the Port right in the magnificent Meirken Park the feels like God's gateway in itself.
Take it to the top of the Kyoto like Kobe Port Tower however in its red lattice effect that feels like the Tokyo Tower meets Skytree and you really get to see the sights rising day to burning orange fallen sun, in its Sannomiya and Mount Maya glory, as the hills have light illuminated drawings etched all over them. From a tooth deep rooted to God's very place itself. If number 24 Bryant has ever been here then he would have seen his name in the sky like STAPLES.
Now like Kanye West once said on the Ghostface Killah, 'Back Like That' remix with Ne-Yo, when it comes to "ordering the Kobe beef like Shaquille O'Neal", if you've got the money go for it. You may aswell try it in the place where it cows massaged and given compliments too comes from.
But forget food for a minute, the real tradition in Kobe that is beautiful goes beyond beef. Right now the Luminarie light festival that is illuminated in December before Christmas honours all those who lost their lives in the 1995 Great Hanshin earthquake. A terrible tragedy that claimed over 6,000 residents of Kobe. Over 200,000 hand painted lights donated from the Italian government are biomass generated and environmentally friendly, but even more importantly they are a tribute testament to those gone and like the dearly departed will never truly go out. And with the streets closed from cars and the most emotional electricity to the city, this somber and sobering experience brings beauty to the aftermath of this town's tragedy even a quarter century in anniversary later.
Manhole grids dotted around the city like Google maps amongst other art designed ones and magnificent murals, surrounded by small statues all over the town like tourists proclaim, "All You Need Is Kobe". Well...and maybe LeBron and love too, but you still get it. Like that Mamba Mentality it's time to 'Be Kobe'. TIM DAVID HARVEY.






