Monday, 23 January 2023

TRAVEL GUIDE: KAWAGOE, SAITAMA, JAPAN


History runs through Japan like gold through pottery in the art of Kintsugi. Yet, the Samurai district of Kanazawa (the only place where you'll wish it would rain) and the entire breadth of Kyoto (the most beautiful city in the world) can't quite compare to Kawagoe. Saitama's super district that transports you back in time.

No wonder it's known as 'Little Edo'. But this old town road lasts for longer than Jiyugaoka's cute corner of Little Italy adorned with a grand gondola that would find it hard to steer itself around a corner. Still, that remains one of Tokyo's sweetest hidden gems.

Meanwhile, Kagawoe belongs in Saitama. Don't call it Tokyo like people who live in Yokohama and Chiba, even if this is the closest you'll get to the Edo period. Yep, when Lady Gaga played the Lions' home of the Seibu Dome last Summer in September it was dubbed a Tokyo tour. The same went for the champion Golden State Warriors vs Japanese hero Rui Hachimura Washington Wizards NBA Japan double-header in Saitama's Super Arena. Oh, and that Kadokawa Culture Museum picture you keep seeing on Instagram with influencers looking up to a skyscraper surrounding of books (heaven)? You get the idea.

Although a short train trip from Japan's capital, Kawagoe is an exclamation in its own right. Seeking out the Bell Tower should be on your Japanese bucket list like a SkyTree or trek to Mount Fuji. Imagine ringing in the New Year with this Bell Of Time (Toki no kane). Even the Great Fire of Kawagoe couldn't bring down a symbol of the city that's been telling time 365 days a year...for over 350 years. 6AM, 12PM, 3PM and 6 again. You can hear it chime four times every 24 hours. 

Twin towns and cities to Kawagoe include Hokkaido's own Nakasatsunai, a place in Japan called Obama (yes, there is), Autun in France and Salem in Oregon. And that's not your lot.

Get your teeth into Candy Street (not just famous with dentists) and their infamous sweet potatoes will appeal. Sweet potato chips. Sweet potato ice cream. Sweet potato coffee. And yes, sweet potato beer. Only Bubba had more options with his now chain restaurant famous shrimp from 'Forrest Gump'.

If that wasn't enough filling. The small backstreet alley of Confectionary Row may just put you on your local jaw doctor's death row. 50 yen may not be able to get you a drink in those legendary Japanese vending machines that line the streets like Starbucks. But it can get you some old-fashioned sweets that take you back in time as much as these streets. The early Shōwa period is on show here as is a golden ticket to a paradise Willy Wonka couldn't even roll up.

Leading you on to Kurazukuri Street, perhaps the most famous of Kawagoe. Traditional kurazukuri, style Edo period warehouses take to the streets like tourists. These fireproof buildings were built after the blaze of 1893. Unfortunately on a recent trip, I saw fire engines outside a badly damaged building. A further reason why we need to preserve history like we do a place's integrity.

Japan is one of the most modern lands in the world, but it's still steeped in shrines to the past. Even October's very own, annual Kawagoe festival is designated as an "intangible cultural heritage". The saying, "you don't know where you're going, if you don't know where you came from" is an all too true cliché. One we must protect, like this town, with open arms. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Thursday, 30 June 2022

TRAVEL GUIDE: SENDAI, JAPAN

 


Beef tongue. A delicacy as famous to this city as the cow in Kobe that was so good NBA player Joe 'Jellybean' Bryant named his late, great son after it. The number 8 and 24 of the Los Angeles Lakers. Forever. But as you get your lips round this, there are two stunning sights among so many in Sendai. Forget tongue like a first date. The cat will have yours when it comes to describing the speechless skyline. A sunset you'll never forget. One of the most incredible landmarks in all of Japan. Oh, and more beef than Kanye West, who once rapped on Wu-Tang Clan legend Ghostface Killah's 'Back Like That' remix with R&B prince Ne-Yo, "she ordered the Kobe beef like Shaquille O'Neal!" Now don't forget your lashings of tongue as you twist the night away in haiku like chopsticks around noodles.

Watching over the city like the Statue of Liberty does the prosperity of New York (but these days looking down with a tear in her eye), the iconic, inspiring Sendai Daikannon (officially known as Sendai Tendou Byakue Daikannon) is like nothing you've seen before. Even the beautiful bust of Kannon-ji looking across Ofuna, just outside of Yokohama. Or the world famous Kamakura Buddha. Although all are just as monumental. A God spreading blessings over the city and protecting it has even had some saying it looks like the final boss in a video game. But you know you'll want to meet her. Byakue Kannon to be exact and respectful. 100 feet high, among the tallest statues (the tallest at its 1991 completion and now the sixth. But who's counting?) in the world and with a gem in her hand. The purity of this figure can not be denied as it looks at you wherever you go. Whichever way the nearby traffic turns. But this isn't scary like when the M.C.U. decided to put up a 'Ms. Marvel' figure, sitting on the huge Welcome to New Jersey sign that had people clutching their wheels like those old Wonderbra ads that caused crashes. This is hauntingly spiritual. And inside carries even more influence. For just 500 measly yen you can see all the statues and dedications (108 Buddha) this robed goddess holds inside with pride. And even some small square views of the city she protects. Don't neglect the direct half-hour bus ride (815 or 825 from Sendai Station's West Exit 14th terminal) it takes to get there. Because she will take you even higher.

Even remotely, looking like one of her smaller statues from afar, she is still a sight to behold. Just take a look from the vista of Sendai Castle and the Aoba Castle Ruins (and the castle walls that still stand so proudly there. A three-stop train ride from Sendai Station to the International Centre (the Japanese home of figure skating dedications) and a 20 minute uphill walk will get you there. But signs warn of bears, snakes, murder hornets and Pumbaa from 'The Lion King', so be aware. Also imagine going all that way and then finding out that the statue of the samurai founder Date Masamune is covered up for restoration (not the first date I've been stood up for). At least they have a nice replica inside Sendai Station, next to all those spots for what's between your teeth. Still, even with Masamune hiding like a ninja in the shadows and some of his kingdom gone, the castle walls still stand proudly and the view of the city skyline (feeling like somewhere between Boston and divine Providence) is something else. Especially as the light gets low and all the skyscraper ones turn on and give you a wink. The legendary purple sunsets in Japan illuminate the skies even more though. As you wave hello to Byakue planted into the hills, looking as small as a gift shop souvenir, but carrying much more spiritual and emotional weight. Just like that between you and yours as you take in the romantic night view joggers and young lovers in their cars make a pilgrimage to. It's the perfect place for a picture, a selfie. A breather and a moment with the one that will take your breath away. The whole city is in front of you. And for a moment...it's yours.

Musuems and the Gokoku shrine surround the Date on horseback. Whilst zoos and amazing aquariums also make sure this city teems with all sorts of life. Modern trappings as per Japanese cities. Convenience stores and budget, but comfortable hotels on every corner (oh hey, APA). But also shrines to history and the spirit of which that lies throughout each path within the city. The Zuihōden Temple in all its black and gold glory. Or the nature that nurtures the city limits and all the Mediatheque future it points towards like Tokyo. Sendai, the second largest city north of there is just two Shinkansen hours of bullet time away. So hop on one like the new Brad Pitt movie. The Yagiyama Zoological Park. The Yamadera Risshakuji Temple, that's a real pilgrimage. The great Akiu Falls. And the outstanding Osaki Hachimangu Shrine to Sendai. From the summer Tanabata Festival to the thousands of Winter lights that illuminate the Pageant of Starlight. One of Japan's 20 designated cities is just a short train trip from Fukushima (which deserves its own break planned, the prefecture is so big), rising up like its neighbour after the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Sendai may be famous for its tongue. But the city itself has a lot more to speak for. There's a lot more at stake in Sendai than what's on the menu. Just check the itinerary. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Sunday, 9 January 2022

TRAVEL GUIDE: MATSUMOTO, JAPAN


Mountains surround Matsumoto in the Japanese prefecture of Nagano. Right now this naturally sublime skyline is no stranger to skiers and those who prefer boarding without wheels and pavement this snow season. Making the most of it until the sensational sakura season comes into pink and white blossoming bloom. These skyscraper dwarfing monoliths in an avalanche of tourism are enough to conceal the cities within them. Like the head of this prefecture, Nagano city itself. But board a direct express train from Shinjuku, Tokyo for about three hours each way and a good book (Toshikazu Kawaguchi's 'Before The Coffee Gets Cold' (thank you, Mum and Dad)). Or a much quicker Shinkansen that will speed past the seasonal scenery in this Winter wonderland for double the price, but not the trouble. And you will find one of Japan's hidden gems that this writer didn't even know existed until he Googled it (taking time off his holiday planning, pre-resolution goal-setting, as the amount of flack I got for not taking a break is ironic. I don't need to go away, as I've been on so many guilt trips of late). Such a find you will even discover one of Japan's National Treasures.

Matsumoto Castle is a sight to behold. A World Heritage one in the land of the rising Fuji and classic castles like Nagoya's and the outstanding one in Osaka. Let alone all the temples and shrines that pedestrians take a daily (especially come this time of year) pilgrimage to in the city. But this one tops them all. Formerly Fukashi Castle and known to some as "Crow Castle" for its raven black exterior, it is among the big-three of Japanese castles alongside those in Himeji and Kumamoto. Dated from 1594 this National Historic Site surrounded by traditional Japanese red bridges and illuminated in neon this time of year, the castle walls speak the stories of Edo era Japanese history in all its earth, stone and wood. Still, stroll around the keep of one of the last twelve remaining original tenshu in Japan after you've taken those initial Instagrams and you'll really get a feel for this place. But breaching this castle without sneakers or shoes is where and how you will really see what this grand structure has to behold. Many travel blog and vloggers recommend warm socks because this castle's chestnut coloured wood floor is colder than the icy waters that moat surround it. But maybe bring a pinch of salt too. Or you might slip a disc coming back down the steepest staircases that feel like a hike expedition up the mountains in themselves. Just joking...please don't desecrate this treasure with dinner condiments. But this fortress built atypically not on hilltops or rivers, instead amongst the plains of flatland will wow you with it's extensive defence system of interconnecting walls and gateways for archers with Hawkeye marksman precision of position. Just like the impressive armoury display of donated muskets and Samurai regalia as this complex castle details the means that were took to defend itself. Yet its the place of peace in the wide windows of a balcony that takes in the whole city of Matsumoto and Nagano beyond that will really astonish you. Even after war those who fought still had the thought to appreciate the silence and beauty of transient things in this country and culture of "mono-no-aware".

Impermanence reminds us nothing lasts forever and to appreciate what we all have whilst it's still here. Sure you can move across this city in a day on your way to a ski-lodge or your way home off piste. But Matsumoto is more than its magnificent castle. Even the surrounding streets that may be corona closed up right now remind you of old America between Boston and Oregon or Yasukuni-dori Avenue, the ski shop ward of Tokyo between Akihabara's game digital love and the books of Jimbocho City. And it's the perfect place this time of year to enjoy some signature soba noodles. The length of these chopstick twirling suckers representing the wish for a long life in the new calendar. Another beautiful and subtle in its poignancy Japanese tradition like cleaning your place thoroughly to welcome in the New Year (I did the bathroom whilst getting back to that nine hour Beatles doc). There is another heritage building in the beautiful Kaichi School for your trips education and the streams of Mount Yake and Azusa creek are more than worth your time if you have a handful of days more. Mesmerising museums and gorgeous galleries could also adorn a weekend away with the one you adore. Whilst souvenirs and traditional temples can be scoured on Nawate Street that greets you with a newt that looks like something straight out a Studio Ghibli movie. Whilst the hot spring town of Asama Spa will soothe and warmly wash all your troubles away. Yet when it comes to this city, sister to homegrown Fujisawa, or the Salt Lake of America's Utah, surrounded by municipalities like Shiojiri and Asahi like the beer it's Nakamachi Street that is the 'Orange' of this 'Perfect World', word to the manga. The traditional town turned into a boutique of beautiful coffee houses and shops is windmill white and black in all its storied stone structure. These hobbled streets, cobbled together in defence of themselves. The criss-cross pattern punctuating 'Frog Street' will leave you wondering which way to leap as you take a look around. These old preserved kura store and warehouses are done so with much care and attention, so give it yours as you stroll slowly. From the top of the castle to these streets below, Matsumoto City still feels protected. But from traditional Kyoto to Kanazawa, outside of Osaka and Tokyo, there are not many more cities that truly represent the changing of Japan's guard quite like this. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Monday, 15 February 2021

TRAVEL GUIDE: KANAZAWA, JAPAN


Tradition seeps through the pores of the streets of Kanazawa, Japan like rainwater through the cracks. There is beauty on every corner. From kimonos tied up in a beautiful bow, to the one you whisk away for a romantic weekend this Valentines (Happy Birthday). Posing so naturally, as pretty as a picture. So much scope like the spokes of the bicycles resting outside as you stop for green tea and matcha. Or locally brewed sake for your sommelier. So perfect and historic in all its 200 year ryokans and 400 trees that you could cry when you realize Kanazawa's worldwide beauty beyond the Far East even rivals Kyoto. But when the weather sheds a tear and the damp turns the dark wood to something cinematic by nightfall, this is when this town really becomes majestic in all its mesmerizing magic. But why pray for rain in this city when you and the one you hold close can put your hands together down the street for the sunlight of a new day?

Rain has it's benefits when it's not turning your umbrella and your frustration inside out with the wind. Apart from the vast farmland of this countryside city, this town has lots of museums (trust me). With architecture as amazing as New York's Guggenheim. The tourist highlight is for sure the 21st Century Museum Of Contemporary Art which really serves as a major cultural centre, demanding your awes attention. Michael Borremans and Mark Manders' 'Double Silence' exhibition is as epic as the "From Liverpool to Tokyo" John Lennon and Yoko Ono 'Double Fantasy' one back in Tokyo's rich Roppongi beneath its tower. As striking as the yellow blocks through the craniums of four female statues, this one will leave you speechless like all the amazing artwork given it's time and space in this building like real relationships and the connections you will make here. But once you take a dip (visual, not literal...just you try to dare) in 'The Swimming Pool' of Leandro Erlich for the main event of this gallery that people want to dive in, you will see from above as below, climbing the steel ladder of the coldest IG shot you'll take this trip. Surrounded by white walls that makes the sun shine even brighter for a minute you'll feel like your in the California gold of Los Angeles' Santa Monica off Venice Beach, or the talents of Miami's South Beach. But this twin city to Buffalo, NY among others is in Japan. A place with it's own beauty and purity. For every dream destination of Hawaii for the citizens of these cities, there's an outstanding Okinawa right at home for them. A stones throw. But skipping them when it comes to Kanazawa this is the place to Shinkansen surf to for a wonderful weekend. 

However if you prefer exhibits that make you question, as well as expand your mind, then why don't you take a train and taxi out to the outskirts where the amazing architecture of Nishida Kitaro lays out the formidable Bond lair or Batcave foundations of the inspired Ishikawa Museum of Philosophy and his life's work for the notebook, canvas and even Colombia gramophone record? Even with little English translation what this Japanese historian has done is not lost in translation. It helps if you have a great companion with you to communicate it all so compellingly. If you don't feel closer to the spirit of yourself after this one, you must be holding something back inside. The plastic chairs of the fifth floor balcony view lined up with an artist impression themselves also serve as the perfect viewpoint to ponder all of Kanazawa and the surrounding mountains before you. Kanazawa neighbours Nagano. A ski resort as sought after for the slopes as Okinawa is for the sun to bathe and bask. Which means Kanazawa is surrounded with the sort of beautiful border that landscapes all sorts of lasting memories for your muse. 

Right now in your 21st Century head back to the Contemporary Art Museum (because you can dip in and out at your pleasure and leisure with a day ticket), and you can see more on display. Like the Bunka Fashion Renaissance of 2021 which showcases the skills of students at university, outfitting their talents for the catwalk. Showing that the future of design is in Japan is in safe hands and seams, sewing needles between the lips. Just one of many outstanding displays here or contemporary art. Like the large black oval of Anish Kapoor that on a sloping concrete wall extending the entire breadth of the gallery with Jan Fabre's 'The Man Who Measures The Clouds' above, lifting a life, death and freedom evoking yardstick. 

But you didn't come all this way by bullet to spend all your time indoors. The real highlight of your trip like sun between the trees and shining leaves comes when you take a walk around the Kenroku-en Garden with greenery and views for miles you could walk for days. Seasons of your life even. From the signature cherry blossoms of Spring that are starting to bloom. To the red end leaves of Autumn every year in Japan falls into like a hallmark. This is one of the 'Three Great Gardens of Japan'. From the Kotojitoro lantern overlooking a pool of a pond so pure you won't be able to tell if you had your camera up the right way the reflection of Kasugimaike Pond or Hisagokie is so hauntingly real to the hallowed truth. Perfect paronamas made for watercolours of monumental mountains and the traits of this traditional town stroll and surround this landscape garden that dates back to the evoking Edo Period. This National Site of Special Scenic Beauty since 1985 (as long as this writer has been alive) is highlighted by the one of a kind Karasakinomatsu. The places between these pines tied together with rope that make them look like no other trees in Japan and especially Christmas ones, evident at most when 'tis the festive season.

Seasons greet you in this place like December 25th, but take the Ishikawamon back door gate to the Kanazawa Castle Park and a kingdom that even rivals the thrones in neighbouring Nagoya and the outstanding Osaka. No wonder these walls built in 1788 remain a National Important Cultural Property. There's so much to see here and do in Kanazawa, even for a couple of days weekend break for two. From the sublime shrine greeting you as you arrive at Kanazawa Station that looks like it could carry an Olympic torch with an eternal flame this year. To the Myouryuki Ninja Temple and the Nagamachi Samurai District, keeping pace with its winding long and winding roads to evade enemy attack. Or the Omicho Market in-between as you say oishi before making your way to the grand Geisha districts for the most traditonal Japanese beauty you'll see before you take the steps to the temple that greets you. Now you've had something to eat, how about somewhere to stay? Now it will take a little drive, or cab fare, but the magnificent Motoyu Ishiya is inspired. This Japanese inn is a 200 year ryokan that in evoking history elegantly will take you back to a time before from the tatami mat's to the view you slide the doors open for. Complete with postcard picturesque snow this season. This writer even finally had the balls (no pun intended) to use the soothing hot springs of an onsen (does someone always scrub your back, or was that just me?). But no traditional and theatrical stunning shows for your spotlight during corona sadly, but of course that's understandable. And when all the classic courses of your beautiful, traditional meal is an event in itself, your stage is set for an unforgettable night and a trip you'll always take in memory as you rest your head in reverie. Just open your dreaming eyes and see. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Tuesday, 12 January 2021

TRAVEL GUDE: ENOSHIMA, JAPAN


Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path. 

Santa Monica surf shops. Miami art deco buildings for as far as the aforementioned Sea Candle can see for the perfect view of the city from dusk 'til dawn, night to day. Twilight to the fire in your eyes. With a vibe like neighbouring Kamakura, this is the place to catch waves like Hokusai or see miles of sand and shores before mountains more breathtaking than Keanu Reeves. But you best believe for all the similarities coast to coast, across the tracks, or the light of what's across the pond. Between the oceans, Enoshima has its own shimmering vibe. It's its own place. One that will have you falling faster than quicksand (but don't worry, there's none of that here). I'd barely even left the station and I was already in love with Enoshima. Almost as beautiful as the one I met there. Even the station is a shrine. Like all that is wonderful and traditional about Japan and the rest of the watching world from the horizon. From Okinawa to the place most Japanese love to visit abroad, Hawaii. But why leave when you can have it here? A place that rivals Japan's big city of  Tokyo, bright lights of Osaka and even the most beautiful city in the world of Kyoto for your next destination. The home of the best people and the place you should take your favourite person to too.

Inspired. This small island off the Shōnan coast off the Kanagawa prefecture is perfect. Part of mainland Fujisawa and among the closest beaches to the busy hubs of Tokyo and this writer's new home in Yokohama. Holding influence for artists from writers to painters colouring the water. We could write for days about this. We think or proclaim you should walk for miles. Through all the cobbled streets and traditional towns. Private owned coffee shops and local restaurants that deserve your business, masks on...especially in these turbulent times. Scaling this lands many peaks is worth your hiking pilgrimage. Especially to see the Enoshima Shrine itself honoring Benzaiten. The Buddhist goddess of music and entertainment who rose this city from the bottom of the sea in the sixth century herself. But how about the valleys? Time to dwell deeper into the Iwaya Caves and see real natural beauty in all its haunting hallmarks and history. Do you feel like the sole of your sneakers is getting bruised? Feet need a warm soak? Then why not tread water in the Enospa hot springs for the rest of your trip? Set to warm you like miso. From the hallowed Hakone to the nourishing Nikko you won't feel much more relaxed than this. And after all isn't that the true meaning, nature and heart of the word, "vacation"? Let Enoshima soothe your soul. Like the one of this British beat writer after being shown around the 19th century English style Samuel Cocking Garden by a wonderful woman and word traveller, local to it all, who had already shown me everything. Take a look at the shining beacon from the lighthouse. This Summer island doesn't just illuminate at Christmas. It's vibrant in its own electricity all year round. Mark your calenders for when all this settles and take a break. When it comes to beauty, Enoshima is that meaning. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Monday, 9 November 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: NIKKO, JAPAN


Murakami's, "the trees brilliant with crimson leaves" before, "Winter readies to lay siege" as the legendary Japanese writer says in his 1985 novel, 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World' prose puts it perfectly. Fall through Nikko this Autumn and you will see Japan like you never have before...even if you've been here a year. This has the makings of a lifetime like an experience just like that, just this once. The perfect country to city, shrine to neon alternative to Tokyo, Osaka, or Yokohama. Just a short train trip (and a vintage locomotive chugging along too) through beautiful scenery that you wish it was longer from the Kansai or Kanagawa region. Nikko is Kyoto beautiful with Hakone peace and Nara individual tradition. Although it's not deer that roam Nikko, but red leaves. Sixties, Los Angeles collective the Mamas and the Papas once sang, "all the leaves are brown" on their iconic classic, 'California Dreaming'. You'll find some that way here, but not a single grey sky right now. Forget about if you were in LA, you'll be Nikko dreaming once you leave this place. As the golden sunlight honey shines through all the red and brown. Just like reflections through a glass jar half full of maple syrup. Running slowly like caramel off a spoon, right through your day.

An old Japanese proverb says, "think nothing splendid, until you've seen Nikko". And oh how you should treat this as gospel. Wonderful waterfalls cascade down the cracks in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture that as an unofficial wonder of the world, but an official World Heritage Site, is without fault. All the way down to the shallows of the hot springs that you will hotel soothe and bathe in until your heart is as content as your calmness. The water is so pure here this really is tranquility for your meditation in this country of Buddhism and polite people. Enshrined here are the remains of a God. Ieyasu. The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate declared holy at his 1616 passing by the imperial court, Ieyasu was also known as the Tosho Daigongen, AKA, 'The Great Incarnation That Illuminates The East'...and oh how he does in all of Nikko's vibrancy. That's history, the rest is your story as you begin to see in this text message world that the 'hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil' monkeys are actually legend and not just another emoji for your emotionless pickle jar. Monkey see, monkey tweet. 

Sacred bridges are about as stranger to Japan as convenience stores and vending machines, but the Shinkyo Bridge is about as hallowed as Shinjuku is electric. So much so you have to pay a toll to walk across. Now that's one selfie that isn't free. What more could you expect when Buddhist priest Shodo crossed the river in 766 on the back of two huge serpents to find the temple Rinnoji? A temple were you'll be greeted by a Buddah of paradise, a Goddess of mercy and a protector of animals, complete with a horses head like 'The Godfather'. Snakes people...two large snakes. What's a couple of hundred yen? An offer you can't refuse? The bridge itself that has survived being washed away is only a five minute bus ride from Tobu Nikko Station to the right, or a quarter of an hour walk of you get to stepping. Surrounded by statues and yellow and red leaves, all the brown and grey is pastel to your water colours for your sketchbooks or artist minds impressions. As no photo you take could give this place justice...and I'm not just saying that because my mobile phone ran out of battery like I didn't plug it in the night before. Stone steps cut through this land and take you to the heritage of more sublime shrines and the white horse entrance of those three cheeky little monkeys. Shine through to the 'Gate Of Sunlight' and the Yomeimon Gate in all it's bronze beauty, gold and Gatsby gaudy is unlike any other shrine you'll see in this country. These lions, tigers and dragons oh my that rise like a phoenix are a National Treasure after all. Come walk and see for yourself. Don't leave here before you enter the Chinese gate of the Karamon too, or the Gate Of The Sleeping Cat that purs like neighbors called Totoro and all the waterfalls you'll chase as these rivers and lakes you'll never get use to. The tender loving care this place is made from and will make for you is just the R and R you've been waiting for. Especially in the most stressful year when we can finally travel again. Enjoy it too in season whilst you still can, as like Haruki Murakami also says in 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland', "in due time, Autumn too vanishes". Nikko is like no other. When it comes to this type of leaf, you'll never want to leave. Splendid! TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Tuesday, 22 September 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: NAGOYA, JAPAN


NASA. Houston, we have a problem. Or is that more like Nagoya? There looks like there is a rocket taking off in the middle of this city between Tokyo and Kyoto like a bullet. Come Shinkansen see for yourself in this 'Go To Travel' campaign this Silver Week which is a nice podium finish, runner up to Japan's Summer Golden Week that was cancelled like their capital city Tokyo's hosting of the 2020 Olympics (that is until next year). The launched Nagoya TV Tower is picking up all the stations in the perfect location in the heart of Hisaya Odori Park. Tune in. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques of serious shopping and coffee housing (from brands like Tommy Hillfiger to subsidiary stores like Ralph's Coffee...Lauren not Wiggum), this mini Eiffell is the face of Nagoya like the Kobe Tower or landmark one here at home in Yokohama are their own cities points of interest like dropping a Google pin on the map. Dragonflys dance on the patch of grass with children chasing to catch them, were locals and tourists alike sit together propping up their phones on their Starbucks cups took out to take a selfie with their new tall friend in the background. Whilst a mini mall of water comes complete with steam showers that giggling kids reach out to touch...adults too. But then everyone stops around every quarter of an hour for their Instagram's 15 minutes of fame. As for the frame the white skeleton of this structure turns red like neighbouring Tokyo Tower and video screen plays patterns like Times Square does King Kong sized commercials. That's when everyone drops were they've shopped in this Californian chic that looks like something out of Santa Monica in the day. But the Tully's and British pub inspired Hub's (you'll never see a classier one than the one at the feet of this T.V. stand...and that's saying something) give it away. It makes for one stunning skyline seen at a platform distance at another park across the road. This place has as much grass as it has neon you'll be taken even higher. There's even a "Central Park" my New Yorkers. Time to be a Nagoyan.

Houston-or whatever your name is-it turns out there actually is an actual rocket just lying around in the middle of the city. Near yet another park (let's hear it for green spaces people), the City Science Museum has one from the space race grounded here like it's about to go off across from the carriage of one of those old green trams that used to get you A to B across the cities scope. The museum is a must, even if at one day I deemed it time constraints, back burner, next day. Hey, in my defence I'm not sure what inside would be more impressive than a real rocket outside...they've kind of shot themselves in the foot. But if you have more than a science's lesson worth of time in Nagoya than you should concentrate on this place that has a Futuroscope (Paris, France. Google) like silver orb that kind of looks like a giants gym workout ball, or an alien ship the way it's parked, not landed in the heart of the city, corner pocket. Still if tradition captivates you more than history than why not take a compelling look at both and storm the walls and some drain, typhoon resevoir moving moats of Nagoya Castle. If you found yourself drawn to the bridge of Osaka Castle than you'll be game for this throne and the wisdom and warriors that surround it like the stories told. Whilst nothings hotter for a bite and drink later than the Nagoya Castle BBQ Park. Complete like something out of the States, but no mead for your medieval times taste to get you in an actual state. You will have to "settle" for Sake or a Bud. 

At Nagoya there's still so much more to see in a place many Japanese who are used to it call boring, but most tourists will be pleasantly surprised at just how many big cities the land of the rising sun has set for your itinerary. Just pinpoint all the 'Be Kobe' like '@ Nagoya' signs Instagram ready when someone's kids aren't climbing over it, or one couple is taking a thousand selfies to get the right one for the right number of likes, despite all the hate given for those waiting so long their phone loses battery (not me...honest). Like the neon that keeps turning on the spinning staple of ferris wheels in every Japanese city. Or the petals (that lit up by candles at night look like you have to walk across hot coals to break on to the other side) that float in the pools of another shopping mall view of the heart of the city that will beat with D.J. music and drinks after hours. That's after you've squeezed into one of Nagoya's narrow food corridors (even my apartment is wider) and stuffed yourself so much you have to squeeze just to fit in your jeans the next day. That almost sounds philosophical...it's not. Talking about being out of shape is like talking about practice for the answer. This place has poetry in the city though. A sign in the middle of all the towers and beer ones in Hisaya Odori Park tells us this was the birthplace in 1684 of haiku poet Basho's style from 'A Winter's Day'. Chapter and verse from its hallmark history to its millennial modern day, the nuanced Nagoya has more to offer you as the capital of Japan's Aichi Prefecture. Central Honshu's manufacturing and shipping hub is about to be a mainstream and shopping one as it reaches for promotional prominence like the iron of its tower does the stars. Some cities in the land of the rising sun relax after dark like the traditions of the most beautiful place in the world, Kyoto. Some others like an anagram of Tokyo shine in all its neon like a brand new day. Now Nagoya, the largest city in the Chubu region and one of the 50 largest urban area in the world is about to get bigger in Japan. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Saturday, 25 July 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: NARA, JAPAN

Deerest Nara, forgive me. This won't be the only reference I steer to towards here. These animals are to the traditional town of Nara what neon is to Tokyo, or temples to Kyoto. It's like they're getting ready for Christmas out here, on Donner, on Blitzen. Sure there's more to this land under the rising sun than antlers and the biscuits these deers hunt like Robert De Niro. But from the traditional temples to the stunning shrines, nothing draws you in like holding your hand out than what surrounds all these iconic landmarks in a town as traditonal and  beautiful as its nearest Kyoto. Take a train from the 'Black Rain' of Osaka in just around a half hour and the camera roll of photo dumped pictures you take on your phone will look like you are trying to film the live action remake of Disney's Bambi. Your memory card might be busy, but all is calm in this peaceful and tranquil city as elegant and docile as the friendly deer that will even offer the hallmark Japanese bow to you after you do the same with a biscuit. Except the one I fed...cheeky bastard!

Coronavirus has kept the tourists at bay this year which sweetly and sadly has lead the confused deer venturing and strolling into the center of town looking for food (imagine standing in a queue at Lawson behind one). But it's also been for good as keeping safe and sound at home in lockdown has lead to some of these deer having better and more natural, healthy diets. So the next time you see these magnificent creatures they might be benched and henched beasts ready to straight steal swipe your food, all headlock, no bow (who's the bastard now hey?). Beware! Like kids crying, getting chased by these young bucks for tuck. There's no need to fear the deer like the Milwaukee Bucks though. These creatures creed is tranquility. Sure a couple barged and bashed each other a little but by accident as I brought out the biscuits like it was time for tea...but half these guys in their own quarantine haven't eaten anything more than grass for months. They don't need to bow this time...although it truly is a sight to behold from Japan's national treasure that have been protected since the 8th century. Still venture out the tourist trap-fenced in by antlers-of Nara Park and the strip of coffee and tourist shops for your souvenirs and restaurants for your own biscuit like feast after feeding the fur. And as you go further along the path to Buddhist temples and shrines of city and colour for the country of the rising red dot like the flag you will see even more beauty to behold as old as time.

Pilgrimage your way through the gravel and stone steps to these temple shrines to Japan legend and legacy and you'll be met by a giant statue of a deer...which if you're a little timid when it comes to these shy specimens may leave you feeling a little 'Planet Of The Apes' like (but save that for the damn monkey island), because at this point you'll have passed so many Bambinos every corner you turn out of Nara Park that you'll believe you're in their world. That's because you are. There's more deer in the nuanced Nara than there are vending machines or conbinis in your average city in Japan. As hallowed as Hakone and the still torji gate subtly to the side of Lake Ashi, the closer you get to those religious blessings you'll be greeted by even younger deer. Babies a long way from the tourists snapping smartphones and eager stroking like keys fingers. These kids may prance and skip away the moment you try and say hello...but oh deer (there it is) how they're cute. You may wish to reach out though like calling an old friend, because Nara's deer are said to be an ancient symbol of good luck as they walk around all the traditional temples like they quaintly own this sacred place (they do). These deer folk are also according to Japanese legend messengers from the God's. And you will feel closer to it. Like this writer not wanting to leave this sacred place which will stay with you. Some trips you just really fall for. They change you. Feel like a moment of conception. From Paris to New York I've been to my fair share of towns and cities I would move to tomorrow in the drop of hat, but I've always been happy to come back home at the end of each vacation. But this trip left me falling for it and wanting more like lost love. As a matter of fact on the last night sitting outside a Starbucks overlooking the still water of a lake beneath us, reflecting the shadows of the sitting and sleeping deer taking shelter from the falling sun and fading tourists. As the evening turned into twilight under the trees above, I was reading Japanese born and British raised writer Kazou Ishiguro's Nobel Prize in Literature winning, 'The Remains Of The Day' thinking of home in the Far East. Ishiguro's 'Remains' novel was turned into a classic film starring Anthony Hopkins, Emma Thompson and the late, great Superman, Christopher Reeve. One of my Nan's favourite films and a compelling chapter by chapter read I picked up because of the country to country travelling residence and what the movie meant to the family member who I wouldn't have got this far in this country without. On what seemed like a night like no other, but what I remembered and realized after my parents reminded me was what would have been her 90th birthday three days after my 35th, celebrating on a trip I took thanks to their own gracious gift of it. Coincidence or meant? So for that let me close with my own message to the spirit like this place. Dear Nan. Happy Birthday. I love you. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Friday, 20 March 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: HAKONE, JAPAN

I want to tell you all about Hakone, Japan, but I can't. I want to tell you that Lake Ashi like the refreshing Japanese beer of the almost same name will feel cool and crisp as it takes your breath away like the person you've just met over Roxy Music, pink wigs and karaoke. I want to tell you that the still, solitary shine there is as symbolic to the land of the rising sun as it is the temple over Mount Fuji front cover to all the paperback travel guides on this lonely planet that will take you there. But I haven't seen it...yet. I want to tell you that beyond the citsyscapes of neighbouring Tokyo and Yokohama you won't get a view of Mount Fuji over the same still reflecting water turned upside down, this side of lacing up your hiking boots that's more than this. But as my Odawara train pulls away and I see it in my smartphone shuttering cameras rearview, I guess this will have to wait until next time.

And that's fine. This is fine.

I can tell you that the Hakone Yumoto station area has more falls than Niagara and is full of life. Even if rocks fallen from last years terrible typhoon means the trains only run one way. Don't worry this mountainous town of somewhat social isolation isn't 'Shining' on some "you can't leave", Stephen King horror tip. There's always the good ol'rail replacement service that all us Brits know all too well. I can tell you that the gorgeous Gora Park full of fountains (one that amongst all this anxiety brought me the most perfect peace I've had for a half hour in years), stonewalks, cafes and craft shops. Not to mention a cracking egg and Douglas fir. Surrounded by levels of moonbeams no matter the season is clock on time well worth the price of the 550 yen admission...unless you wisely invested in the Shinkansen like Romancecar Hakone free day pass that will cable car take you to all sorts of highs and sights in this city with more peaks than Laura Palmer. I can tell you this because it's right next to the hotel I bunkered down in as soon as I could check in. The Hotel Merveille Gora, with its faithful staff still working at this time, deserving of their pay and your business. Having your bag ready and waiting in your at home room once you've checked in following leaving your luggage with a tag until that time. It really is the little things.

But something didn't feel right. And I'm not talking about the flawless hotel service. As beautiful and bountiful as this amazing place, Hakone, the hallmark of Japan, it didn't feel right. Especially with the current Coranavirus planet pandemic of panic and actual evidence to justify this anxiety Donald Trump and Boris Johnson. The whole world is practically quarantined right now and although where it began in China and where it headed right after in Japan (on the cruise ship of the Diamond Princess on the port of Yokohama, the city where this writer teaching English for a year here resides no less) seems to have against the odds avoided another surge. And despite some closures and cancellations they are still biding their time despite the backlash to their decision on the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo which could unite the world that doesn't shake hands anymore (with good reason) like this country if Corona bows out by then. It's always better to be safe than sorry...and ill. As you know what they say, you can never be too careful. And as we wash our hands and hopefully leave some hand sanitizer for someone else instead of sitting on a throne of toilet paper and keyboard warrior shaming into submission the workers that can't not go to work in fear of losing their home (and there's not enough rolls to go round to build another fort with), truer words have never been spoken. You should always listen to your elders...and boy should you respect them too. It didn't feel right being here on this trip I booked way before Tom Hanks and the NBA and not the scientists that we should have listened to made the world lock down, sit up on our sofas and take notice. Even trying to get away from all the hustle and bustle, it just didn't feel right with the risk of infecting someone, who cares about what happens to me in regards to what I get to see. I've already seen enough. I made a mistake. I shouldn't make more. I teach everyday in the city. In a building next to the main trainline to the town and airport services. I teach one-on-one in a room, with a mask at your request even though I'm not ill. But we could be. It takes five days to manifest. Idris Elba and Kevin Durant have it with no symptoms. And we've all had that one cough we tried to stifle before people shift in their seats on the train. And I'm British, although I can try to keep calm and carry on, my friends and family have it much worse back home when they thought at first that I was in a worse place. Turns out we all our. With friends social distancing and staying at home to the risk of their jobs let alone their mental welfare this seems like warfare as once again online people would rather put down for likes than come together for love. But saying that just look at what your local community does beautifully for each other. So enough about me, because it's about that. So I stayed in the hotel for the night. Took a bath and took it to the mattresses with Mario Puzo's 'The Godfather'. Definitely not venturing to the hot springs this town is famous for although meeting someone who has just cycled here from Kyoto over four days (now that's strength over struggle inspiring) left me wanting to learn more. Called it a night, hit the hay and was on the next bus back home the next day to go back to Yokohama and hunker down to read and write like I do. I'll see Hakone in all its Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji glory again. And we can read all about it then.

I'll be back. Our health at great risk if we don't take precautions and the health of those around us family and stranger might not be.

What's more important? Instagram or real influence? Likes or who you love?

Stay safe out there. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Wednesday, 26 February 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: KAMAKURA, JAPAN

'Our Little Sister' introduced us to our little seaside city, just outside of Tokyo and Yokohama, Japan. And just we had to go there. The classic Hirokazu Koreeda Japanese drama movie starring Masami Nagasawa, Haruka Ayase, Kaho and Suzo Hirose concerned three twentysomething sisters who get their 14 year old half-sister to live with them when their father passes away. The 2015 Cannes Film Festival favourite based on the manga 'Umimachi Diary' was set in the peaceful, perfect place of Kamakura and there's an iconic moment were in mourning and Sunday best, the sisters walk the beach, sand between their smart shoes and look out to the sea for a tide and life changing iconic moment of perspective. Let all this get between your toes too and you will find your way and your own view of life out here.

Waves caught by surfers catch you as you boardwalk this town that feels like the border that frames all your favourite Japanese art prints and pins. The wind in Kamakura was so bad the weekend I went I was getting hit by waves from the sea and I wasn't even walking on the beach. It felt I was getting slapped in the face by Hokusai. But what a way to wake up. Most mornings on this salary side of Japan you expect to be surrounded by suits walking round the temples and traditional terrace houses, not Speedos. But this is Kamakura, where the hair is slicked back with salt water not gel. The beach and the walk with the tide licking your feet is beyond beautiful. But if your surf is all the way up to the shore, by nightfall you can see an iconic look of Mount Fuji. A vivid view that takes your breath away as much as hiking up there. Just a stones throw away from Tokyo and a skim of just under a half hour away on the train from Yokohama, this is the perfect getaway for both if you're visiting Japan, or if you live there between the rat race hustle and bustle of neon and all that's lost in translation...trust me.

Medieval Japan's political center there are still traditions to the past in temple to this land of the rising suns legendary legacy just like there is between all the convenience stores and bright advertising lights through this nuanced, neon nation. But the biggest draw is the biggest Buddah you've seen this side of Hong Kong. Millions upon millions make the pilgrimage to see and praise it everyday, bowing and giving thanks. And with more Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines than you can see a day then why don't you stay? The Kōtoku-in feels like a local finalist for a world wonder if you really want to have your breath taken away between all the sea air and cherry blossom petals that will Sakura soon fall between it, for what will make the perfect Instagram picture, but what's more, life experience. Daibutsu IS Japan. A 15th century tsunami destroyed a temple that surrounded the Buddah completely, but with his home destroyed the Buddah still stood, survived and stands to this day, hundreds upon hundreds of years later. Is there anything more that subtly and symbolically speaks to the resiliency of this reserved but revelatory nation under the rising sun?

Gozan. Kamakura is also home to the Five Great Zen Temples and we all know how significant that number is to the beauty of Buddhism. Their proposal for having some of their landmark locations added to the atlas of World Heritage Sights needs to be made matrimony without even having to get down on one knee. And how about it? With itinerary highlights like the Tsurugaoka Hachimangū and how from your walking entrance it almost looks like two temples stacked on top of each other. Or the Kyoto circular world's view of the gardens of the Megetsuin Temple. And if you want to talk about this lands most traditional town than how about the Hokokuji Temple and its epic entrance of beautiful bamboo? The Great Kantō earthquake in 1923 almost levelled this city, but brick by brick, pillar by pillar, strength to strength what did we tell you about this nation that rebuilds more than the New York Knicks? This shogunate, former defacto capital of Japan with Nice and Nashville as it's French and USA sister cities, from its green traditional trains like a San Francisco tram, to the Californian like hills that lead to gold like the end of a rainbow is this nations treasure like the page of a Murakami book, or the brush of a waves stroke. If Tokyo is the pulse and Kyoto the heart, then Kamakura is the soul. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

Monday, 16 December 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: KOBE, JAPAN

Kobe isn't just the name of one of the greatest of all time when it comes to Basketball. It's also the name of one of the best cities in the world when it comes to travelling Japan. Be Kobe. No not like Mike, but in the motto of this terrific town.

Open the literal translation of "God's door" and Kobe will literally show you heaven like Marie McKie's 'Days Of Thunder'. Not only that but also like fellow port town Yokohama a place that shows Japan is more than the big three of Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A short train ride and even quicker Bullet from the latter two.

Or if you're interested in Japan's inspiration of 80's Americana (you should 'Kramer Versus Kramer' check out their 'Born On The Fourth Of July' Netflix right now if you don't already have one of those VPN altering apps), this place feels like a quiet Providence in-between Boston buildings. Only to feel in parts like the talents of South Beach when you make it to the Miami like port. Or the California of a cool San Diego all the way up the cable car bus like San Francisco hilly streets back to the Santa Monica dream meets Rodeo Drive, Los Angeles rich sidewalks of the New Orleans esque Kobe Jazz street where all cultures connect like good food and music. Until the traditional temples of the old meets neon new Japan confirm you're still set in the land of the rising sun.

Still from the jazz to the port like drinking to the sounds of the city, it's these two extremes that Kobe is all about. Save hiking the hills of Mount Rokkō, or bathing your feet after that walk in the Aroma Onsen. But cross the LGBT everyone's welcome rainbow like Akashi-Kaikyo Bridge to the Harborland and you'll find the heart of the Port right in the magnificent Meirken Park the feels like God's gateway in itself.

Take it to the top of the Kyoto like Kobe Port Tower however in its red lattice effect that feels like the Tokyo Tower meets Skytree and you really get to see the sights rising day to burning orange fallen sun, in its Sannomiya and Mount Maya glory, as the hills have light illuminated drawings etched all over them. From a tooth deep rooted to God's very place itself. If number 24 Bryant has ever been here then he would have seen his name in the sky like STAPLES.

Now like Kanye West once said on the Ghostface Killah, 'Back Like That' remix with Ne-Yo, when it comes to "ordering the Kobe beef like Shaquille O'Neal", if you've got the money go for it. You may aswell try it in the place where it cows massaged and given compliments too comes from.

But forget food for a minute, the real tradition in Kobe that is beautiful goes beyond beef. Right now the Luminarie light festival that is illuminated in December before Christmas honours all those who lost their lives in the 1995 Great Hanshin earthquake. A terrible tragedy that claimed over 6,000 residents of Kobe. Over 200,000 hand painted lights donated from the Italian government are biomass generated and environmentally friendly, but even more importantly they are a tribute testament to those gone and like the dearly departed will never truly go out. And with the streets closed from cars and the most emotional electricity to the city, this somber and sobering experience brings beauty to the aftermath of this town's tragedy even a quarter century in anniversary later.

Manhole grids dotted around the city like Google maps amongst other art designed ones and magnificent murals, surrounded by small statues all over the town like tourists proclaim, "All You Need Is Kobe". Well...and maybe LeBron and love too, but you still get it. Like that Mamba Mentality it's time to 'Be Kobe'. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Friday, 27 September 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: BUSAN, SOUTH KOREA

Brazil like bustle in the middle of a Hollywood bright light hustle. Motorcycles and mopeds that mount the curb of these sidewalks bathed in nocturnal neon. The energy and vibe of Busan all the way to the best beaches are unlike no other. Take a train from Seoul station with the horde and you'll find the heart of South Korea in a city on the (high) rise of the future so tech-driven that Marvel's Black Panther even filmed that classic casino car chase here. Clawing it's way all the way to the purple perfect Gwangan Bridge that takes you through the sand and colourful Rio Favela like houses that scale the city surrounding mountains like monorails. Korea I should have come to you sooner. And Busan you are the best to these new age, digital art streets ahead of even your New York and London's calling.

California soul, Miami heat, Tokyo streets, a San Diego vibe and a Seoul retreat, Busan has it all. So take a train from the South's capital like the most inventive zombie horror concept in an undead amount of them and take a trip to one of the most inspired cities like its influential neighbour. Busan is traditional and electric...not to mention eclectic as it has so much to offer, from temples to shopping malls and culture on every corner. Busan is busy, but Busan is bountiful.

Seomyeon's soul has miles of magnificent malls for your shopping wish list. So much so you may have to bring your scissors along with your credit card. There's also a place for coffee and to eat on every corner. From Western hot dogs and pizza, to more traditional cuisine if fast food isn't your bag. But you can't go to Korea without completing your trip with some Korean BBQ...say's this writer who tried some for the first time a day later...in Japan. Anyway your stomachs and pant sizes are covered and if the neon glare doesn't knock you out after keeping you awake for hours perhaps it's time to calm down like a Taylor Swift hit. This place can get too loud, but that's just its attitude...which isn't a problem. And with the traditional temples and places of worship you'd be hard pressed to find a place that brings you more peace in this massive mecca of a metropolis.

But still some tourist advice if you do want to get away from it all take a walk in the Citizens Park for one of the rare but relaxing green spaces in this concrete jungle. Dreams are made of this. Cicada quiet, subtle surroundings, fabulous fountains and a youthful feel, this new development is instant vintage. You could lose your day and all your troubles here. And if you forgot your paperback for the park bench then have no fear there's a book café here. Ideal for your next coffee date...even if you are yet to meet him or her...yet!

Sand between your toes however it doesn't get much better than by the beach. And by this seaside town city there are more beach spaces than a Lana Del Rey song or the home of the Marina Del Rey. But the most Hollywood famous is the Haeundae Beach and miles for this eyes to take in can see why. This beach has waves of surf, sun, street performers, boardwalks that pilgrim lead you to a view of where T'Challa rode the top of a henchman's car, a lighthouse to show you the way beyond a sculpted splash of a mermaid and even a conscience. As only yesterday two artists were making a point by crafting a giant fish out of plastic they probably recovered from the same sea lapping at their feet. And just out of reach if you want to get really friendly in this environment and visit some places for coffee rather than your usual Starbucks on every corner (speaking of mermaids) why not take a detour around the Harajuku independent like streets nearby (that is however after blasting the sand off your feet with a genius air gun. The days of wet shoes and socks are gone. They really do everything better over here)?

Some of these streets from SpongeBob to a NASA astronaut light take normal mundane settings and transform them into some creative art inspirations. Our favourite has to be the Spider-Man converted hanging washing line. Just round the corner houses our favourite coffee shop that's white walls and abstract picture frames make this look like an art gallery...even if one of them is of Homer...Simpson not Ulysses, draped in donuts. This sweet spot is called Platform Nine. Take a train here...just make sure you don't run into the side of it. Order three quarters of a shot in your coffee though...just for fun, and so you're not so wired in this neon buzz of a hub.

Now that's just a couple of days. Just wait until the evening. This city comes alive at nighttime and that life is amazing. When worldwide K-Pop juggernauts BTS' (who really make 'Gangnam Style' look like a one hit wonder) big hit 'Spring Day' came on in a thrift shop the whole mood of the store lifted like what these global pioneers have done for their genres brand and the 'Love Yourself' positive movement by the Army (yeah I Stan). Salute! If you can still get up the next day, don't pass out or up on all this part Hong Kong/part Osaka cityscape has to offer. Peaks and valleys of coloured houses that make these rolling hills look like an artist's palette. What seems like a million parasols by the beach in red and white hypnotic unison, but still enough sand space for you and your family to build your castle. An electric bill bigger then when your youngest comes home from university. And all those Tokyo rivalling temples that tell you before the future what paved the way was the traditions this town is still steeped in. Steeper than the accomodation locations...but hopefully not the prices. Time to book that train to Busan. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Saturday, 13 July 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: CAPE COD, USA

Fear not. You can still catch a stunning, sunny vacation to Cape Cod this weekend or this Summer. Just a short drive from the beautiful Boston, or an episode and a half binged of the new 'Stranger Things' series, sipping on a Cherry slurpy whilst riding a Greyhound or Peter Pan, this is the jewel of Massachusetts. Offering you more beaches than Lana Del Rey was looking for to find one empty and ferry's to iconic places like the Kennedy's favourite vacation spot of Martha's Vineyard and Nantucket. Home of quite possibly the best cold drinks ever bottled in the Nantucket Nectars.

But best believe you better drive. As that's the only really way you cane get around this place bordered by more roadside motels than Hitchcock horror flicks. This writer did suddenly start thinking about 'Psycho' for some reason when he took his first trips shower. Still open your curtains to a new day and dive into the pool and you'll see that there isn't much more classic Americana than the iconic motel life. But you're not here on this hook shaped peninsula of the mesmerizing Massachusetts to stay in and watch T.V. or lean over your balcony with a cigarette or cold one and take it all in. It's time to grab your towel and trunks and hit the beach.

And there's plenty for your sand castles and suntans from Seagull to Dennis...they are actually beaches, not the name of your company on this trip. But remember to listen to 'Romeo + Juliet' director Baz Luhrmann and 'Always Wear Sunscreen' class of '97. Believe me. If I could offer you one piece of advice...etc. Because if you don't it will feel like you're insides have been sunburnt too....trust me. Just take my word for it. Don't look at the watch tan line marks left on the only pasty spot left on the top half of my body (yeah I wear jeans...no one needs to see these legs). Just know what time it is.

But from marble white sand to a deep blue sea dive in...but be careful. You know the famous, fictional Amity Island from Steven Spielberg's shark attack classic 'Jaws' was actually filmed in the tourist trap of Martha's Vineyard right? Cue the Roy Scheider iconic GIF ready reaction frame whilst your partner is massaging in your lotion. Yep...we hope you know how to swim. Because 'Baywatch' is on the other side of the coast in California, Hoff.

THE Summer destination of the north east is more than just sand and surf however. As iconic lighthouses will guide you to ponds and parks picturesque perfect until the sun goes down and you are bathed in an orange glow in what will feel like your own secret spot of solitude to just read or gather your thoughts. The Cape is all about the quiet little villages too everywhere you turn after miles of road, each with their own distinct character and friendly feel. And if some of your favourite places to stay in the vast as this island seems United States of America include destinations like Louisiana's New Orleans then this perfect place also has a Mardis Gras of seafood shacks...but I'm sorry no Beignets for you sugar. There's only one place for those as Jon Favreau's Netflix 'Chef' show tells you...Cafe Monde in NOLA's Crescent City.

And after a slow sun burning beautiful day in this historic maritime location and the resort islands islands that surround it like the sun on all your photographic, Instagram memories, there's a menus worth of wonderful restaurants, family owned and chain to take your order as you settle in for the night. All you have to do is take a walk around the hallmark Hyannis, Yarmouth or Provincetown and it won't be long before you find a table to cool off with a pitcher of water and some God sent air conditioning. You're going to be a fan of Cape Cod and as nightfalls you will see that nothing beats that warm evening feeling of a Summer holiday. Screw the staycation, it's time to get out there. All super trips wear capes. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Sunday, 13 January 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: NEW ORLEANS, LOUISIANA, USA

NOLA clap, "I've got the world on a string, sittin' on a rainbow/Got the string around my finger/What a world, what a life, I'm in love!/I've got a song that I sing", Louis Armstrong once harmonised in his signature gravelly voice of groundbreaking gravitas. And with that our travel blog and all its 'Journal Guide' recommendations for better or worse (we don't actually advise you "go f### yourselves San Diego"...it's a line from the film 'Anchorman'. We love you like lamp) was born.

And as you take in the heart of the Louisiana technicolour off the Gulf of Mexico. From the neon gates of his own perfect, peaceful park sculpted and manicured in his name, like the jazz trumpet blaring musician of legend. You'll think to yourself what a wonderful world as you see all this Cresent City Connection holds beyond that beautiful bridge of iron over the Mississippi.

It's Mardi Gras again in 'The City Care Forgot' that has overcame so much. The devastation of Hurricane Katrina. The ignorance of those in power who during the flooding and depression like hometown hero rapper 'Tha Carter', Lil' Wayne said, "didn't even leave a ladder". All to make it back on their own and still dance to this day with a smile of resilience and their own rejuvenation on their face. I mean this is a voodoo town that even has jazz funerals that party and celebrate life rather than mourn death. The party doesn't stop, even through the pain. Positivity over negativity. Love over hate. And when it comes to this historical landmark, it's own wonder of the world, the coronation continues.

And the music doesn't stop in the jazz bars of Bourbon Street. Because in this melting pot of Creole Cuisine, Gumbo and the sugar dust off your jeans of Beignets (I hope you brought a dust buster) everything flows like the time of your fountain of youth. And in a neon and amber on ice dream if you can't have a good time here. Then you can't have a good time here. Because in the classic French Quarter there is more than meets the idea of these perfect, in keeping traditional and beautiful buildings. Horse to carriage. Saxophone to trumpet. So open your French windows and see. Every corner is worth your camera. Every incarnation and Instagram. This place is instant vintage. Tomorrows tradition. New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, San Francisco, Miami, Las Vegas. You may have seen it all in the United States of America. But you ain't ever seen anything like New Orleans and the whole of the French Quarter.

New Orleans is also a sporting city and as the Mercedes Benz Superdome rises again in rainbow neon you can have faith in the saints. But buzzing like the Hornets they used to be named after in the always goes down smooth, Smoothie King Center (you must have one with your dog) across the neighbouring street (so close you could pitch a pass across) you can fly New Orleans Pelicans fly. At press time they have one of the biggest and best players in the National Basketball Association by the 'brow of A.D. Anthony Davis. But with the trade deadline looming like his feelings you may want to catch a game before it's too late. Although fellow 'cat Julius Randle and whoever they get in return for the giant Ant-Man will be bang worth your buck.

But forget four quarters we know this city is all about the ooh la, la of the French Quarter for all you monsieurs and mademoiselles. Now it may not be as romantic as Paris but boy are you going to love it. But if your heart ain't in all of that than you can always find the soul of this city in the traditional monuments like the beautiful St. Louis Cathedral of Jackson Square as you get your fortune read by hand and picture taken by pencil. Or the fabulous ferns of the Garden District. But weed them out and you'll love the bands that play. All the way to the scraping skyline and the illuminated theatres of Joy in the desired streetcars of the Central Business District.

But as the sun goes down and the moonshine comes up on Crescent City, it's time to take the Bourbon off the shelf as you spend a killer few hours in the French Quarter. Don't say no to the N.O. You've got the world on a string kid. Time to take it easy in the Big Easy. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Saturday, 12 January 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: SAN DIEGO, CALIFORNIA, USA


Go f### yourself San Diego! Oh, no, no! No...I'm sorry. I apologize. That's a quote from the cult classic movie 'Anchorman'. I promise. I'm sorry. But let me tell you there's plenty more reasons to visit the place that comedy calls "a whales vagina' that finds itself between San Francisco and Los Angeles 120 miles away and in its small town, city calm next to the Golden Gate and Hollywood than loving lamp.

Take the Gaslamp Quarter by gaslight for example. Anthemic to this cities culture of good food and an even better time once the alcohol fills your glass and you raise a cup. Because if LA is too busy for you. And San Fran too hill big. Than these greetings from Saint Diego make the picture perfect, retro vintage postcard to send you on your way. Stretching for as miles far as the lantern can see out to sea, or like the mozzarella between the breaded sticks you stretch to share (yeah right...the only thing you're sharing these bar bites with is marinara sauce). With more traditional, signature seafood joints than the knots in your stomach if you eat too much, the only thing this quarter has more of is every game going in the sports bar that your eyes and multiple T.V.'s can see. It's time to look up again instead of having your social life buried in another screen. Because in this town there's no scrolling or swipe right, the good people you meet tonight and will never forget are right there infront of you. Right now.

But take a walk out of lamplight and gas up your running shoes in a city that jogs (not "yogs" Ron) and find yourself uptop the stadium structure perpendicular to all that Friday night fun and you'll meet the unofficial sprinters peak that offers you a beautiful view of the bay (see above) and all the boats that will lead you to the waterline of this coastal city in the Pacific and the quieter watering holes and straight from the sea food places that take this city from one night to brotherhood to anniversary moments with your beloved. The calmer it gets to the ocean breeze. The quieter kept your unforgettable memories that haven't been brain cell dimmed by whiskey and wine.

And it's along this walk you should take to see more this city has to offer by the water. Like the ships sailed straight out of rum diary bottle of a 'Pirates Of The Carribbean' movie on this California coast. But none of these wooden planks can walk the walk or talk the talk with the military muscle and might of the USS Maritime memorial museums right there on the harbour in all their unsinkable battleship glory for those naval officers that gave their lives for freedom of their country. And you'll be moves to salute with some emotional sculptures and statues that haunt the harrowing nature of war and all the love that is lost and in some cases gladly and tearfully reunited in the fight. And of course there's also taller than it all that iconic shot sculpted of the officer dipping his partner for a kiss beneath the return home ticker tape of New York's Times Square, LIFE immortalised. Because there's no greater victory than that.

But between the San Diego Zoo of squirrels that can water-ski (that's the second to last 'Anchorman' reference I sort of promise) and Balboa Park that is truly a knockout, there is so much to see in the "birthplace of California". But one of the best ways to see this town is to get down to some walking. And from the bottom of your worn sneakers your heart will see the soul of this city. Block street art mural to block beauty as you see the thin golden California line of a setting sun in the sky between the chrome of the scraping structures, you'll want to keep looking both ways long after you've looked whether it's safe to cross the street. It's kind of like that anticipatory feeling without the fear of when you walk-ran through the supermarket as a kid, trying to play it cool as you bobbed your head and ducked and weaved like a floating butterfly down every aisle to look for your mum. As you got lost in the whole cereal aisle you hoped to bring all back to the trolly cart. But when you catch one here at the end of the day like you would in the Bay City neighbour it's time for a night you won't forget. I hope you brought your jazz flute.

You stay classy San Diego. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Friday, 11 January 2019

TRAVEL GUIDE: ORANGE COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, USA

Sunkissed beaches bursting like freshly pressed juice. Time to open the doors and register an Orange County suite for your next vacation. Because here's a trip. Forget 'The Florida Project' (great movie. Should have won some Oscars). This California county is more than a stop-off or a place to Motel your bags whilst your kids run around Disneyland, no matter how much wonder is there. But beyond the amazing Anaheim amusement attraction and it's loop da loops you can be shown the world.

Whether your hopping a train from San Diego, or even trying to gridlock drive out of LA, it's time to meet in the middle of this core and visit the fruit of California in all its segments like the stunning San Clemente. Because it's more than just Mickey Mouse ears or Goofy teeth. Check into Irvine and there's a Spectrum of things to see and we aren't just talking about the family friendly, mid-highway mall were you can shop 'till you drop your bags at a choice of restaurants before movie night. Or making it neon romantic on that wonder wheel that gives you some scope to how Sunkist bright this place really is.

Perfect palms borderline and hold this area in its giant grasp like Orange County's sister cities do like twins. In a calm, California chill area of mid-trip, rest-stop peace with friendly bed and breakfasts (may we recommend the lovely Laguna Lodge) complete with pools outside akin to where they bathed their feet daily on 'My Name Is Earl', sunrise to set. And of course there are always Starbucks and stops to eat a few wait a year crossings nearby.

But to get your kicks in this place somewhere on the way to Route 66 then you need to have a car, take a cab or ride the Uber app until the bank back home cancels your card (*shaking hand up*. It's not as stranded scary as it sounds...oh it's much worse than that). And there really is one ride that is worth putting your seatbelt on for a trip through the cactus Jack dry hills.

You can't pass through Orange County without spending a night in Laguna Hills. And don't let the MTV generation put you off Laguna Beach. From Venice to the talents of South Beach this writer hasn't seen sand and sea as sublime at tide sweeping in night-time. And as the Uber (what a great way for a solo traveller to make some light, breezy conversation) took made it just in time for a burnt orange, stunning sunset I was simply left laughing. That's something like pure joy and I felt it just in time as the light disappeared below the horizon and was replaced with a Best Coast, California night calm that envelopes this whole town like a love letter, penmanship signed, kiss sealed, and hand delivered. The picture perfect postcards dont do justice to a place that looks like a walking screensaver sample. Words I could write wouldn't even begin to do this all its bucket list justice. So don't read, be all about it. Ain't nothing like the OC. But this is your show.

And with a just by chance personal guided tour from local legend and now fond friend Blair McManus who makes beach art in the sand with the hands of his frisbee (or as it's properly, purist known the disco disc) that cavas this places palette with even more amazing attraction art that is a must-see on this shore canvas. There's so much history here if you let the locals tell it between grabbing a quick, quiet bite or coffee, but it's time to make your memories own. From the Laguna Hills Civic Centre building beauty to the stunning Huntington or Newport Beach by day to night like you Lana Del Rey record generation know like Santa Monica or Marina Del Rey there are plenty inspirations for Instagram. But forget all that social media white noise for a minute in a place designed for phones down, quiet as kept serenity. This is about you and me. And whoever you chose to spend this time with. And if scrolling through their smarts they say there's nothing to do. What could be more beautiful? It's yours. There's a lot to take in. And from the depths offered at Dana Point you can see it all.

So bask in this blossom special right now because even in this dry January Winter tis the season. But instead of R.E.M. dreaming about it. It's time to get your Orange crush. Because Orange County is the new place you're going to want to go back. TIM DAVID HARVEY.

Saturday, 25 August 2018

GUIDE TO: HONG KONG, PEOPLE'S REPUBLIC OF CHINA

Towering even Bruce Willis' string-vest Christmas jumper classic 'Die Hard' with a 'San Andreas' like inferno, Hong Kong's skyline of palaces hasn't looked this grand since 'The Dark Knight' of Christian Bale's Batman slalom swooped through it in Nolan inspired IMAX bright lights and big cinematic screen. Can you smell what The Rock is cooking now? Look above. That's Dwayne Johnson jumping off a crane and into a C.G.I. monolith of a building block for his Summer smash 'Skyscraper' movie that we're talking about right now. And what better place to backdrop set this movie than the autonomous territory of the People's Republic of China?

Stunning. Like Los Angeles, Miami and Tokyo all rolled into one, Hong Kong is an amazing maze of culture and future. And it's one you'll want to get lost in. Translating a crossing of Shibuya neon with the glow of Times Square on New Years, vibrant isn't even the word. We're going to need a bigger dictionary. As if you take a boat across Hong Kong's harbour and view this cities skyline until the sun goes down and the electric bill goes up you know you're about to change your desktops screen saver. Just make sure the ship you set sail in looks like something out of 'Pirates Of The Caribbean' to really get the feel of this Far East treat. But anchor your day to night stay on shore for a couple of hours, as around 8.00pm you'll be hit with a light and music show that takes strobe effects to a whole new level. And as the skyline of skyscrapers sing as iPhone's ping you'll want more than a picture or a video. This vivid view evokes a feeling that can't be described of quantified on social media posts and likes. Like the ball dropping on 0:00, January 1st above that old Coca Cola sign you just have to be there. Or square.

On the opposite end of the spectrum and bay like the Tsim Sha Tsui, martial arts legend Bruce Lee bronzed promenade on this other side, the Central Waterfront Promenade offers a quieter, calmer alternative view of the cityscape. Perfect for yoga, meditation, reading or even a romantic picnic. And after dark on this boardwalk that leads to an amusement park and wonder wheel, the light show seen from across, but actually performed here minus the music booming across the sea makes for an experience that is surreal but...to want for a better 'Notting Hill' reference...nice.

But for a view that can't be beat in this city. Let alone any city in the world it's time to take a tram like a morning commute up the hills of San Francisco. And the Victoria Harbour peak tram that takes you to the top of the city will take your breath away like Berlin...and we aren't talking about the altitude. But as you make it to the summit, don't stop there. As light to dark the best place to get a picture isn't bodied behind all the selfie sticks and extended arms, pushing and shoving at the peak in celebrity like camera crowds where the view below is the movie and rock star. You ever been to the Louvre in Paris and tried to get a picture of the Mona Lisa? It's not like that Beyonce and Jay-Z video. It's truly ape####! And this is like that times ten...penned in to one area with a death drop for your phone over the edge. Instead why not walk one of the many trails that circumfrence this peak, skyline and the even more beautiful mountains that surround it? This makes for a real pilgramage explore that feels truly earned. And what you see is like nothing else in this crazy city. And the calmed vibe it will leave you with is as reenergizing as it is refreshing. Some cool mountain air away from the skylines smog? Now that is what can't be beat.

But walk the beats of these streets and you will see even more worth your camera lens in this city surrounded by steel and glass pillars. But with all these man made structures and artificial light it's good to get some nature for the soul. Especially after walking the Golden Mile of neon inviting bars and simmering stalls of delicious street food all night. And a hidden gem in the business end of this city is Hong Kong park and its waterfall walkways and even a fountain you can actually walk into and see the water cascading from inside. Perfect to cool off in the insect buzzing Summer heat that will leave you looking like you've been in a fountain the moment you leave your hotel lobby. There's even an official Olympic Square and if that wasn't enough a tea museum in Hong Kong Park which if you're British is basically everything.

There's so much in this city in the way of shops, restaurants and coffee houses in miles of malls that offer views worth paying for with each floor you hit. The wonder of Wan Chai even features a spectator stand of big basketball courts and soccer turf, side by side for all your sporting needs. No wonder Hong Kong is surrounded by so many apartment blocks for as high as the eyes can almost not see the sky. Everyone wants a piece of this place. And that's natural. But it's also natural to want to get away from that and find some peace and real Chinese culture and history. And that's where you should take a tour through this lands traditions. And whilst you can visit Ocean Park, Cheung Chau, the Lamma Island or even Hong Kong's Disneyland (O.K...that's not traditional), on the coast there's nothing like the beach beauty of the Repulse Bay. But if you want to take it higher then get out of town and take the Ngong Ping cable car to the Po Lin Monastery to the Lantau Island and ascend the steps to see the grand Tian Tan Buddah and pay your respects to this monument of Hong Kong and the Buddhist religion if you will. Nothing in this chrome and neon city that touches the sky with electric metal will leave you in more awe.

This city truly has it all and so much more they have to grow up towards the clouds. So much so 7.4 million people inhabit the fourth most densely populated place on earth where everything is only an hour away on train. But don't let that intimidate you. For all the people that's here and all that can be done in 60 minutes, HK is waiting for you. TIM DAVID HARVEY.