TRAVEL GUIDE: NIKKO, JAPAN

Murakami's, "the trees brilliant with crimson leaves" before, "Winter readies to lay siege" as the legendary Japanese writer says in his 1985 novel, 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland and the End of the World' prose puts it perfectly. Fall through Nikko this Autumn and you will see Japan like you never have before...even if you've been here a year. This has the makings of a lifetime like an experience just like that, just this once. The perfect country to city, shrine to neon alternative to Tokyo, Osaka, or Yokohama. Just a short train trip (and a vintage locomotive chugging along too) through beautiful scenery that you wish it was longer from the Kansai or Kanagawa region. Nikko is Kyoto beautiful with Hakone peace and Nara individual tradition. Although it's not deer that roam Nikko, but red leaves. Sixties, Los Angeles collective the Mamas and the Papas once sang, "all the leaves are brown" on their iconic classic, 'California Dreaming'. You'll find some that way here, but not a single grey sky right now. Forget about if you were in LA, you'll be Nikko dreaming once you leave this place. As the golden sunlight honey shines through all the red and brown. Just like reflections through a glass jar half full of maple syrup. Running slowly like caramel off a spoon, right through your day.

An old Japanese proverb says, "think nothing splendid, until you've seen Nikko". And oh how you should treat this as gospel. Wonderful waterfalls cascade down the cracks in the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture that as an unofficial wonder of the world, but an official World Heritage Site, is without fault. All the way down to the shallows of the hot springs that you will hotel soothe and bathe in until your heart is as content as your calmness. The water is so pure here this really is tranquility for your meditation in this country of Buddhism and polite people. Enshrined here are the remains of a God. Ieyasu. The founder of the Tokugawa Shogunate declared holy at his 1616 passing by the imperial court, Ieyasu was also known as the Tosho Daigongen, AKA, 'The Great Incarnation That Illuminates The East'...and oh how he does in all of Nikko's vibrancy. That's history, the rest is your story as you begin to see in this text message world that the 'hear no evil, see no evil and speak no evil' monkeys are actually legend and not just another emoji for your emotionless pickle jar. Monkey see, monkey tweet. 

Sacred bridges are about as stranger to Japan as convenience stores and vending machines, but the Shinkyo Bridge is about as hallowed as Shinjuku is electric. So much so you have to pay a toll to walk across. Now that's one selfie that isn't free. What more could you expect when Buddhist priest Shodo crossed the river in 766 on the back of two huge serpents to find the temple Rinnoji? A temple were you'll be greeted by a Buddah of paradise, a Goddess of mercy and a protector of animals, complete with a horses head like 'The Godfather'. Snakes people...two large snakes. What's a couple of hundred yen? An offer you can't refuse? The bridge itself that has survived being washed away is only a five minute bus ride from Tobu Nikko Station to the right, or a quarter of an hour walk of you get to stepping. Surrounded by statues and yellow and red leaves, all the brown and grey is pastel to your water colours for your sketchbooks or artist minds impressions. As no photo you take could give this place justice...and I'm not just saying that because my mobile phone ran out of battery like I didn't plug it in the night before. Stone steps cut through this land and take you to the heritage of more sublime shrines and the white horse entrance of those three cheeky little monkeys. Shine through to the 'Gate Of Sunlight' and the Yomeimon Gate in all it's bronze beauty, gold and Gatsby gaudy is unlike any other shrine you'll see in this country. These lions, tigers and dragons oh my that rise like a phoenix are a National Treasure after all. Come walk and see for yourself. Don't leave here before you enter the Chinese gate of the Karamon too, or the Gate Of The Sleeping Cat that purs like neighbors called Totoro and all the waterfalls you'll chase as these rivers and lakes you'll never get use to. The tender loving care this place is made from and will make for you is just the R and R you've been waiting for. Especially in the most stressful year when we can finally travel again. Enjoy it too in season whilst you still can, as like Haruki Murakami also says in 'Hard-Boiled Wonderland', "in due time, Autumn too vanishes". Nikko is like no other. When it comes to this type of leaf, you'll never want to leave. Splendid! TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: NAGOYA, JAPAN

NASA. Houston, we have a problem. Or is that more like Nagoya? There looks like there is a rocket taking off in the middle of this city between Tokyo and Kyoto like a bullet. Come Shinkansen see for yourself in this 'Go To Travel' campaign this Silver Week which is a nice podium finish, runner up to Japan's Summer Golden Week that was cancelled like their capital city Tokyo's hosting of the 2020 Olympics (that is until next year). The launched Nagoya TV Tower is picking up all the stations in the perfect location in the heart of Hisaya Odori Park. Tune in. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques of serious shopping and coffee housing (from brands like Tommy Hillfiger to subsidiary stores like Ralph's Coffee...Lauren not Wiggum), this mini Eiffell is the face of Nagoya like the Kobe Tower or landmark one here at home in Yokohama are their own cities points of interest like dropping a Google pin on the map. Dragonflys dance on the patch of grass with children chasing to catch them, were locals and tourists alike sit together propping up their phones on their Starbucks cups took out to take a selfie with their new tall friend in the background. Whilst a mini mall of water comes complete with steam showers that giggling kids reach out to touch...adults too. But then everyone stops around every quarter of an hour for their Instagram's 15 minutes of fame. As for the frame the white skeleton of this structure turns red like neighbouring Tokyo Tower and video screen plays patterns like Times Square does King Kong sized commercials. That's when everyone drops were they've shopped in this Californian chic that looks like something out of Santa Monica in the day. But the Tully's and British pub inspired Hub's (you'll never see a classier one than the one at the feet of this T.V. stand...and that's saying something) give it away. It makes for one stunning skyline seen at a platform distance at another park across the road. This place has as much grass as it has neon you'll be taken even higher. There's even a "Central Park" my New Yorkers. Time to be a Nagoyan.

Houston-or whatever your name is-it turns out there actually is an actual rocket just lying around in the middle of the city. Near yet another park (let's hear it for green spaces people), the City Science Museum has one from the space race grounded here like it's about to go off across from the carriage of one of those old green trams that used to get you A to B across the cities scope. The museum is a must, even if at one day I deemed it time constraints, back burner, next day. Hey, in my defence I'm not sure what inside would be more impressive than a real rocket outside...they've kind of shot themselves in the foot. But if you have more than a science's lesson worth of time in Nagoya than you should concentrate on this place that has a Futuroscope (Paris, France. Google) like silver orb that kind of looks like a giants gym workout ball, or an alien ship the way it's parked, not landed in the heart of the city, corner pocket. Still if tradition captivates you more than history than why not take a compelling look at both and storm the walls and some drain, typhoon resevoir moving moats of Nagoya Castle. If you found yourself drawn to the bridge of Osaka Castle than you'll be game for this throne and the wisdom and warriors that surround it like the stories told. Whilst nothings hotter for a bite and drink later than the Nagoya Castle BBQ Park. Complete like something out of the States, but no mead for your medieval times taste to get you in an actual state. You will have to "settle" for Sake or a Bud. 

At Nagoya there's still so much more to see in a place many Japanese who are used to it call boring, but most tourists will be pleasantly surprised at just how many big cities the land of the rising sun has set for your itinerary. Just pinpoint all the 'Be Kobe' like '@ Nagoya' signs Instagram ready when someone's kids aren't climbing over it, or one couple is taking a thousand selfies to get the right one for the right number of likes, despite all the hate given for those waiting so long their phone loses battery (not me...honest). Like the neon that keeps turning on the spinning staple of ferris wheels in every Japanese city. Or the petals (that lit up by candles at night look like you have to walk across hot coals to break on to the other side) that float in the pools of another shopping mall view of the heart of the city that will beat with D.J. music and drinks after hours. That's after you've squeezed into one of Nagoya's narrow food corridors (even my apartment is wider) and stuffed yourself so much you have to squeeze just to fit in your jeans the next day. That almost sounds philosophical...it's not. Talking about being out of shape is like talking about practice for the answer. This place has poetry in the city though. A sign in the middle of all the towers and beer ones in Hisaya Odori Park tells us this was the birthplace in 1684 of haiku poet Basho's style from 'A Winter's Day'. Chapter and verse from its hallmark history to its millennial modern day, the nuanced Nagoya has more to offer you as the capital of Japan's Aichi Prefecture. Central Honshu's manufacturing and shipping hub is about to be a mainstream and shopping one as it reaches for promotional prominence like the iron of its tower does the stars. Some cities in the land of the rising sun relax after dark like the traditions of the most beautiful place in the world, Kyoto. Some others like an anagram of Tokyo shine in all its neon like a brand new day. Now Nagoya, the largest city in the Chubu region and one of the 50 largest urban area in the world is about to get bigger in Japan. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: NARA, JAPAN

Deerest Nara, forgive me. This won't be the only reference I steer to towards here. These animals are to the traditional town of Nara what neon is to Tokyo, or temples to Kyoto. It's like they're getting ready for Christmas out here, on Donner, on Blitzen. Sure there's more to this land under the rising sun than antlers and the biscuits these deers hunt like Robert De Niro. But from the traditional temples to the stunning shrines, nothing draws you in like holding your hand out than what surrounds all these iconic landmarks in a town as traditonal and  beautiful as its nearest Kyoto. Take a train from the 'Black Rain' of Osaka in just around a half hour and the camera roll of photo dumped pictures you take on your phone will look like you are trying to film the live action remake of Disney's Bambi. Your memory card might be busy, but all is calm in this peaceful and tranquil city as elegant and docile as the friendly deer that will even offer the hallmark Japanese bow to you after you do the same with a biscuit. Except the one I fed...cheeky bastard!

Coronavirus has kept the tourists at bay this year which sweetly and sadly has lead the confused deer venturing and strolling into the center of town looking for food (imagine standing in a queue at Lawson behind one). But it's also been for good as keeping safe and sound at home in lockdown has lead to some of these deer having better and more natural, healthy diets. So the next time you see these magnificent creatures they might be benched and henched beasts ready to straight steal swipe your food, all headlock, no bow (who's the bastard now hey?). Beware! Like kids crying, getting chased by these young bucks for tuck. There's no need to fear the deer like the Milwaukee Bucks though. These creatures creed is tranquility. Sure a couple barged and bashed each other a little but by accident as I brought out the biscuits like it was time for tea...but half these guys in their own quarantine haven't eaten anything more than grass for months. They don't need to bow this time...although it truly is a sight to behold from Japan's national treasure that have been protected since the 8th century. Still venture out the tourist trap-fenced in by antlers-of Nara Park and the strip of coffee and tourist shops for your souvenirs and restaurants for your own biscuit like feast after feeding the fur. And as you go further along the path to Buddhist temples and shrines of city and colour for the country of the rising red dot like the flag you will see even more beauty to behold as old as time.

Pilgrimage your way through the gravel and stone steps to these temple shrines to Japan legend and legacy and you'll be met by a giant statue of a deer...which if you're a little timid when it comes to these shy specimens may leave you feeling a little 'Planet Of The Apes' like (but save that for the damn monkey island), because at this point you'll have passed so many Bambinos every corner you turn out of Nara Park that you'll believe you're in their world. That's because you are. There's more deer in the nuanced Nara than there are vending machines or conbinis in your average city in Japan. As hallowed as Hakone and the still torji gate subtly to the side of Lake Ashi, the closer you get to those religious blessings you'll be greeted by even younger deer. Babies a long way from the tourists snapping smartphones and eager stroking like keys fingers. These kids may prance and skip away the moment you try and say hello...but oh deer (there it is) how they're cute. You may wish to reach out though like calling an old friend, because Nara's deer are said to be an ancient symbol of good luck as they walk around all the traditional temples like they quaintly own this sacred place (they do). These deer folk are also according to Japanese legend messengers from the God's. And you will feel closer to it. Like this writer not wanting to leave this sacred place which will stay with you. Some trips you just really fall for. They change you. Feel like a moment of conception. From Paris to New York I've been to my fair share of towns and cities I would move to tomorrow in the drop of hat, but I've always been happy to come back home at the end of each vacation. But this trip left me falling for it and wanting more like lost love. As a matter of fact on the last night sitting outside a Starbucks overlooking the still water of a lake beneath us, reflecting the shadows of the sitting and sleeping deer taking shelter from the falling sun and fading tourists. As the evening turned into twilight under the trees above, I was reading Japanese born and British raised writer Kazou Ishiguro's Nobel Prize in Literature winning, 'The Remains Of The Day' thinking of home in the Far East. Ishiguro's 'Remains' novel was turned into a classic film starring Anthony Hopkins, Emma Thompson and the late, great Superman, Christopher Reeve. One of my Nan's favourite films and a compelling chapter by chapter read I picked up because of the country to country travelling residence and what the movie meant to the family member who I wouldn't have got this far in this country without. On what seemed like a night like no other, but what I remembered and realized after my parents reminded me was what would have been her 90th birthday three days after my 35th, celebrating on a trip I took thanks to their own gracious gift of it. Coincidence or meant? So for that let me close with my own message to the spirit like this place. Dear Nan. Happy Birthday. I love you. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: HAKONE, JAPAN

I want to tell you all about Hakone, Japan, but I can't. I want to tell you that Lake Ashi like the refreshing Japanese beer of the almost same name will feel cool and crisp as it takes your breath away like the person you've just met over Roxy Music, pink wigs and karaoke. I want to tell you that the still, solitary shine there is as symbolic to the land of the rising sun as it is the temple over Mount Fuji front cover to all the paperback travel guides on this lonely planet that will take you there. But I haven't seen it...yet. I want to tell you that beyond the citsyscapes of neighbouring Tokyo and Yokohama you won't get a view of Mount Fuji over the same still reflecting water turned upside down, this side of lacing up your hiking boots that's more than this. But as my Odawara train pulls away and I see it in my smartphone shuttering cameras rearview, I guess this will have to wait until next time.

And that's fine. This is fine.

I can tell you that the Hakone Yumoto station area has more falls than Niagara and is full of life. Even if rocks fallen from last years terrible typhoon means the trains only run one way. Don't worry this mountainous town of somewhat social isolation isn't 'Shining' on some "you can't leave", Stephen King horror tip. There's always the good ol'rail replacement service that all us Brits know all too well. I can tell you that the gorgeous Gora Park full of fountains (one that amongst all this anxiety brought me the most perfect peace I've had for a half hour in years), stonewalks, cafes and craft shops. Not to mention a cracking egg and Douglas fir. Surrounded by levels of moonbeams no matter the season is clock on time well worth the price of the 550 yen admission...unless you wisely invested in the Shinkansen like Romancecar Hakone free day pass that will cable car take you to all sorts of highs and sights in this city with more peaks than Laura Palmer. I can tell you this because it's right next to the hotel I bunkered down in as soon as I could check in. The Hotel Merveille Gora, with its faithful staff still working at this time, deserving of their pay and your business. Having your bag ready and waiting in your at home room once you've checked in following leaving your luggage with a tag until that time. It really is the little things.

But something didn't feel right. And I'm not talking about the flawless hotel service. As beautiful and bountiful as this amazing place, Hakone, the hallmark of Japan, it didn't feel right. Especially with the current Coranavirus planet pandemic of panic and actual evidence to justify this anxiety Donald Trump and Boris Johnson. The whole world is practically quarantined right now and although where it began in China and where it headed right after in Japan (on the cruise ship of the Diamond Princess on the port of Yokohama, the city where this writer teaching English for a year here resides no less) seems to have against the odds avoided another surge. And despite some closures and cancellations they are still biding their time despite the backlash to their decision on the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo which could unite the world that doesn't shake hands anymore (with good reason) like this country if Corona bows out by then. It's always better to be safe than sorry...and ill. As you know what they say, you can never be too careful. And as we wash our hands and hopefully leave some hand sanitizer for someone else instead of sitting on a throne of toilet paper and keyboard warrior shaming into submission the workers that can't not go to work in fear of losing their home (and there's not enough rolls to go round to build another fort with), truer words have never been spoken. You should always listen to your elders...and boy should you respect them too. It didn't feel right being here on this trip I booked way before Tom Hanks and the NBA and not the scientists that we should have listened to made the world lock down, sit up on our sofas and take notice. Even trying to get away from all the hustle and bustle, it just didn't feel right with the risk of infecting someone, who cares about what happens to me in regards to what I get to see. I've already seen enough. I made a mistake. I shouldn't make more. I teach everyday in the city. In a building next to the main trainline to the town and airport services. I teach one-on-one in a room, with a mask at your request even though I'm not ill. But we could be. It takes five days to manifest. Idris Elba and Kevin Durant have it with no symptoms. And we've all had that one cough we tried to stifle before people shift in their seats on the train. And I'm British, although I can try to keep calm and carry on, my friends and family have it much worse back home when they thought at first that I was in a worse place. Turns out we all our. With friends social distancing and staying at home to the risk of their jobs let alone their mental welfare this seems like warfare as once again online people would rather put down for likes than come together for love. But saying that just look at what your local community does beautifully for each other. So enough about me, because it's about that. So I stayed in the hotel for the night. Took a bath and took it to the mattresses with Mario Puzo's 'The Godfather'. Definitely not venturing to the hot springs this town is famous for although meeting someone who has just cycled here from Kyoto over four days (now that's strength over struggle inspiring) left me wanting to learn more. Called it a night, hit the hay and was on the next bus back home the next day to go back to Yokohama and hunker down to read and write like I do. I'll see Hakone in all its Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji glory again. And we can read all about it then.

I'll be back. Our health at great risk if we don't take precautions and the health of those around us family and stranger might not be.

What's more important? Instagram or real influence? Likes or who you love?

Stay safe out there. TIM DAVID HARVEY. 

TRAVEL GUIDE: KAMAKURA, JAPAN

'Our Little Sister' introduced us to our little seaside city, just outside of Tokyo and Yokohama, Japan. And just we had to go there. The classic Hirokazu Koreeda Japanese drama movie starring Masami Nagasawa, Haruka Ayase, Kaho and Suzo Hirose concerned three twentysomething sisters who get their 14 year old half-sister to live with them when their father passes away. The 2015 Cannes Film Festival favourite based on the manga 'Umimachi Diary' was set in the peaceful, perfect place of Kamakura and there's an iconic moment were in mourning and Sunday best, the sisters walk the beach, sand between their smart shoes and look out to the sea for a tide and life changing iconic moment of perspective. Let all this get between your toes too and you will find your way and your own view of life out here.

Waves caught by surfers catch you as you boardwalk this town that feels like the border that frames all your favourite Japanese art prints and pins. The wind in Kamakura was so bad the weekend I went I was getting hit by waves from the sea and I wasn't even walking on the beach. It felt I was getting slapped in the face by Hokusai. But what a way to wake up. Most mornings on this salary side of Japan you expect to be surrounded by suits walking round the temples and traditional terrace houses, not Speedos. But this is Kamakura, where the hair is slicked back with salt water not gel. The beach and the walk with the tide licking your feet is beyond beautiful. But if your surf is all the way up to the shore, by nightfall you can see an iconic look of Mount Fuji. A vivid view that takes your breath away as much as hiking up there. Just a stones throw away from Tokyo and a skim of just under a half hour away on the train from Yokohama, this is the perfect getaway for both if you're visiting Japan, or if you live there between the rat race hustle and bustle of neon and all that's lost in translation...trust me.

Medieval Japan's political center there are still traditions to the past in temple to this land of the rising suns legendary legacy just like there is between all the convenience stores and bright advertising lights through this nuanced, neon nation. But the biggest draw is the biggest Buddah you've seen this side of Hong Kong. Millions upon millions make the pilgrimage to see and praise it everyday, bowing and giving thanks. And with more Buddhist temples and Shinto shrines than you can see a day then why don't you stay? The Kōtoku-in feels like a local finalist for a world wonder if you really want to have your breath taken away between all the sea air and cherry blossom petals that will Sakura soon fall between it, for what will make the perfect Instagram picture, but what's more, life experience. Daibutsu IS Japan. A 15th century tsunami destroyed a temple that surrounded the Buddah completely, but with his home destroyed the Buddah still stood, survived and stands to this day, hundreds upon hundreds of years later. Is there anything more that subtly and symbolically speaks to the resiliency of this reserved but revelatory nation under the rising sun?

Gozan. Kamakura is also home to the Five Great Zen Temples and we all know how significant that number is to the beauty of Buddhism. Their proposal for having some of their landmark locations added to the atlas of World Heritage Sights needs to be made matrimony without even having to get down on one knee. And how about it? With itinerary highlights like the Tsurugaoka Hachimangū and how from your walking entrance it almost looks like two temples stacked on top of each other. Or the Kyoto circular world's view of the gardens of the Megetsuin Temple. And if you want to talk about this lands most traditional town than how about the Hokokuji Temple and its epic entrance of beautiful bamboo? The Great Kantō earthquake in 1923 almost levelled this city, but brick by brick, pillar by pillar, strength to strength what did we tell you about this nation that rebuilds more than the New York Knicks? This shogunate, former defacto capital of Japan with Nice and Nashville as it's French and USA sister cities, from its green traditional trains like a San Francisco tram, to the Californian like hills that lead to gold like the end of a rainbow is this nations treasure like the page of a Murakami book, or the brush of a waves stroke. If Tokyo is the pulse and Kyoto the heart, then Kamakura is the soul. TIM DAVID HARVEY.