Tuesday 22 September 2020

TRAVEL GUIDE: NAGOYA, JAPAN


NASA. Houston, we have a problem. Or is that more like Nagoya? There looks like there is a rocket taking off in the middle of this city between Tokyo and Kyoto like a bullet. Come Shinkansen see for yourself in this 'Go To Travel' campaign this Silver Week which is a nice podium finish, runner up to Japan's Summer Golden Week that was cancelled like their capital city Tokyo's hosting of the 2020 Olympics (that is until next year). The launched Nagoya TV Tower is picking up all the stations in the perfect location in the heart of Hisaya Odori Park. Tune in. Surrounded by beautiful boutiques of serious shopping and coffee housing (from brands like Tommy Hillfiger to subsidiary stores like Ralph's Coffee...Lauren not Wiggum), this mini Eiffell is the face of Nagoya like the Kobe Tower or landmark one here at home in Yokohama are their own cities points of interest like dropping a Google pin on the map. Dragonflys dance on the patch of grass with children chasing to catch them, were locals and tourists alike sit together propping up their phones on their Starbucks cups took out to take a selfie with their new tall friend in the background. Whilst a mini mall of water comes complete with steam showers that giggling kids reach out to touch...adults too. But then everyone stops around every quarter of an hour for their Instagram's 15 minutes of fame. As for the frame the white skeleton of this structure turns red like neighbouring Tokyo Tower and video screen plays patterns like Times Square does King Kong sized commercials. That's when everyone drops were they've shopped in this Californian chic that looks like something out of Santa Monica in the day. But the Tully's and British pub inspired Hub's (you'll never see a classier one than the one at the feet of this T.V. stand...and that's saying something) give it away. It makes for one stunning skyline seen at a platform distance at another park across the road. This place has as much grass as it has neon you'll be taken even higher. There's even a "Central Park" my New Yorkers. Time to be a Nagoyan.

Houston-or whatever your name is-it turns out there actually is an actual rocket just lying around in the middle of the city. Near yet another park (let's hear it for green spaces people), the City Science Museum has one from the space race grounded here like it's about to go off across from the carriage of one of those old green trams that used to get you A to B across the cities scope. The museum is a must, even if at one day I deemed it time constraints, back burner, next day. Hey, in my defence I'm not sure what inside would be more impressive than a real rocket outside...they've kind of shot themselves in the foot. But if you have more than a science's lesson worth of time in Nagoya than you should concentrate on this place that has a Futuroscope (Paris, France. Google) like silver orb that kind of looks like a giants gym workout ball, or an alien ship the way it's parked, not landed in the heart of the city, corner pocket. Still if tradition captivates you more than history than why not take a compelling look at both and storm the walls and some drain, typhoon resevoir moving moats of Nagoya Castle. If you found yourself drawn to the bridge of Osaka Castle than you'll be game for this throne and the wisdom and warriors that surround it like the stories told. Whilst nothings hotter for a bite and drink later than the Nagoya Castle BBQ Park. Complete like something out of the States, but no mead for your medieval times taste to get you in an actual state. You will have to "settle" for Sake or a Bud. 

At Nagoya there's still so much more to see in a place many Japanese who are used to it call boring, but most tourists will be pleasantly surprised at just how many big cities the land of the rising sun has set for your itinerary. Just pinpoint all the 'Be Kobe' like '@ Nagoya' signs Instagram ready when someone's kids aren't climbing over it, or one couple is taking a thousand selfies to get the right one for the right number of likes, despite all the hate given for those waiting so long their phone loses battery (not me...honest). Like the neon that keeps turning on the spinning staple of ferris wheels in every Japanese city. Or the petals (that lit up by candles at night look like you have to walk across hot coals to break on to the other side) that float in the pools of another shopping mall view of the heart of the city that will beat with D.J. music and drinks after hours. That's after you've squeezed into one of Nagoya's narrow food corridors (even my apartment is wider) and stuffed yourself so much you have to squeeze just to fit in your jeans the next day. That almost sounds philosophical...it's not. Talking about being out of shape is like talking about practice for the answer. This place has poetry in the city though. A sign in the middle of all the towers and beer ones in Hisaya Odori Park tells us this was the birthplace in 1684 of haiku poet Basho's style from 'A Winter's Day'. Chapter and verse from its hallmark history to its millennial modern day, the nuanced Nagoya has more to offer you as the capital of Japan's Aichi Prefecture. Central Honshu's manufacturing and shipping hub is about to be a mainstream and shopping one as it reaches for promotional prominence like the iron of its tower does the stars. Some cities in the land of the rising sun relax after dark like the traditions of the most beautiful place in the world, Kyoto. Some others like an anagram of Tokyo shine in all its neon like a brand new day. Now Nagoya, the largest city in the Chubu region and one of the 50 largest urban area in the world is about to get bigger in Japan. TIM DAVID HARVEY.