Tuesday 12 January 2021

TRAVEL GUDE: ENOSHIMA, JAPAN


Light a candle in the heart of Enoshima, Japan as far as the sea can see. One that illuminates the Winters night and carries a torch like the 2020 Olympic Games Tokyo still wants to burn bright this Summer in the face of a coronavirus planet pandemic (wishful, well intentioned thinking, but even this writer who moved to Tokyo in 2019 for the half decade in the making dream of seeing last years postponed games knows they shouldn't). Or the million eyes or selfie cellphones focused on that many lights wrapped around the towns park like a Christmas tree this season. Hanging like mooring lines. Not one dimmed or gone out in this linked network which must take a million years to unravel like tangled up ones at home that same song every Boxing Day. "How many" you say as we see. Would you like to count? In the heart of this neon garden, the Enoshima Island Illumination is a sight to behold. As romantic as it is electric. They only thing that moves more power is the Luminaire in Kobe. Shining a light and tribute to all those who lost their lives to the tragic earthquake of '95. The award winning Shonan no Hoseki illumination switches on at 7.pm every December day until the love of mid-February, before the woods and tunnels of crystal turn to the blossom of cherry. Making its home in the Samuel Cocking Garden maybe the place you want to get down on one knee this Valentines...if you can even move with the corona crowds. Right now it's best to enjoy this place from a safe, social distance. And dusk 'till dawn from there when it comes to Enoshima you can take in one hell of a view. On a clear day you can even see Fuji in all its glory. From the Winter tulips to the stained glass ornaments an shrines, let this decoration of light touch you...but sanitize those hands before you walk like someone sprinkled diamonds in your path. 

Santa Monica surf shops. Miami art deco buildings for as far as the aforementioned Sea Candle can see for the perfect view of the city from dusk 'til dawn, night to day. Twilight to the fire in your eyes. With a vibe like neighbouring Kamakura, this is the place to catch waves like Hokusai or see miles of sand and shores before mountains more breathtaking than Keanu Reeves. But you best believe for all the similarities coast to coast, across the tracks, or the light of what's across the pond. Between the oceans, Enoshima has its own shimmering vibe. It's its own place. One that will have you falling faster than quicksand (but don't worry, there's none of that here). I'd barely even left the station and I was already in love with Enoshima. Almost as beautiful as the one I met there. Even the station is a shrine. Like all that is wonderful and traditional about Japan and the rest of the watching world from the horizon. From Okinawa to the place most Japanese love to visit abroad, Hawaii. But why leave when you can have it here? A place that rivals Japan's big city of  Tokyo, bright lights of Osaka and even the most beautiful city in the world of Kyoto for your next destination. The home of the best people and the place you should take your favourite person to too.

Inspired. This small island off the Shōnan coast off the Kanagawa prefecture is perfect. Part of mainland Fujisawa and among the closest beaches to the busy hubs of Tokyo and this writer's new home in Yokohama. Holding influence for artists from writers to painters colouring the water. We could write for days about this. We think or proclaim you should walk for miles. Through all the cobbled streets and traditional towns. Private owned coffee shops and local restaurants that deserve your business, masks on...especially in these turbulent times. Scaling this lands many peaks is worth your hiking pilgrimage. Especially to see the Enoshima Shrine itself honoring Benzaiten. The Buddhist goddess of music and entertainment who rose this city from the bottom of the sea in the sixth century herself. But how about the valleys? Time to dwell deeper into the Iwaya Caves and see real natural beauty in all its haunting hallmarks and history. Do you feel like the sole of your sneakers is getting bruised? Feet need a warm soak? Then why not tread water in the Enospa hot springs for the rest of your trip? Set to warm you like miso. From the hallowed Hakone to the nourishing Nikko you won't feel much more relaxed than this. And after all isn't that the true meaning, nature and heart of the word, "vacation"? Let Enoshima soothe your soul. Like the one of this British beat writer after being shown around the 19th century English style Samuel Cocking Garden by a wonderful woman and word traveller, local to it all, who had already shown me everything. Take a look at the shining beacon from the lighthouse. This Summer island doesn't just illuminate at Christmas. It's vibrant in its own electricity all year round. Mark your calenders for when all this settles and take a break. When it comes to beauty, Enoshima is that meaning. TIM DAVID HARVEY.