Beef tongue. A delicacy as famous to this city as the cow in Kobe that was so good NBA player Joe 'Jellybean' Bryant named his late, great son after it. The number 8 and 24 of the Los Angeles Lakers. Forever. But as you get your lips round this, there are two stunning sights among so many in Sendai. Forget tongue like a first date. The cat will have yours when it comes to describing the speechless skyline. A sunset you'll never forget. One of the most incredible landmarks in all of Japan. Oh, and more beef than Kanye West, who once rapped on Wu-Tang Clan legend Ghostface Killah's 'Back Like That' remix with R&B prince Ne-Yo, "she ordered the Kobe beef like Shaquille O'Neal!" Now don't forget your lashings of tongue as you twist the night away in haiku like chopsticks around noodles.
Watching over the city like the Statue of Liberty does the prosperity of New York (but these days looking down with a tear in her eye), the iconic, inspiring Sendai Daikannon (officially known as Sendai Tendou Byakue Daikannon) is like nothing you've seen before. Even the beautiful bust of Kannon-ji looking across Ofuna, just outside of Yokohama. Or the world famous Kamakura Buddha. Although all are just as monumental. A God spreading blessings over the city and protecting it has even had some saying it looks like the final boss in a video game. But you know you'll want to meet her. Byakue Kannon to be exact and respectful. 100 feet high, among the tallest statues (the tallest at its 1991 completion and now the sixth. But who's counting?) in the world and with a gem in her hand. The purity of this figure can not be denied as it looks at you wherever you go. Whichever way the nearby traffic turns. But this isn't scary like when the M.C.U. decided to put up a 'Ms. Marvel' figure, sitting on the huge Welcome to New Jersey sign that had people clutching their wheels like those old Wonderbra ads that caused crashes. This is hauntingly spiritual. And inside carries even more influence. For just 500 measly yen you can see all the statues and dedications (108 Buddha) this robed goddess holds inside with pride. And even some small square views of the city she protects. Don't neglect the direct half-hour bus ride (815 or 825 from Sendai Station's West Exit 14th terminal) it takes to get there. Because she will take you even higher.
Even remotely, looking like one of her smaller statues from afar, she is still a sight to behold. Just take a look from the vista of Sendai Castle and the Aoba Castle Ruins (and the castle walls that still stand so proudly there. A three-stop train ride from Sendai Station to the International Centre (the Japanese home of figure skating dedications) and a 20 minute uphill walk will get you there. But signs warn of bears, snakes, murder hornets and Pumbaa from 'The Lion King', so be aware. Also imagine going all that way and then finding out that the statue of the samurai founder Date Masamune is covered up for restoration (not the first date I've been stood up for). At least they have a nice replica inside Sendai Station, next to all those spots for what's between your teeth. Still, even with Masamune hiding like a ninja in the shadows and some of his kingdom gone, the castle walls still stand proudly and the view of the city skyline (feeling like somewhere between Boston and divine Providence) is something else. Especially as the light gets low and all the skyscraper ones turn on and give you a wink. The legendary purple sunsets in Japan illuminate the skies even more though. As you wave hello to Byakue planted into the hills, looking as small as a gift shop souvenir, but carrying much more spiritual and emotional weight. Just like that between you and yours as you take in the romantic night view joggers and young lovers in their cars make a pilgrimage to. It's the perfect place for a picture, a selfie. A breather and a moment with the one that will take your breath away. The whole city is in front of you. And for a moment...it's yours.
Musuems and the Gokoku shrine surround the Date on horseback. Whilst zoos and amazing aquariums also make sure this city teems with all sorts of life. Modern trappings as per Japanese cities. Convenience stores and budget, but comfortable hotels on every corner (oh hey, APA). But also shrines to history and the spirit of which that lies throughout each path within the city. The Zuihōden Temple in all its black and gold glory. Or the nature that nurtures the city limits and all the Mediatheque future it points towards like Tokyo. Sendai, the second largest city north of there is just two Shinkansen hours of bullet time away. So hop on one like the new Brad Pitt movie. The Yagiyama Zoological Park. The Yamadera Risshakuji Temple, that's a real pilgrimage. The great Akiu Falls. And the outstanding Osaki Hachimangu Shrine to Sendai. From the summer Tanabata Festival to the thousands of Winter lights that illuminate the Pageant of Starlight. One of Japan's 20 designated cities is just a short train trip from Fukushima (which deserves its own break planned, the prefecture is so big), rising up like its neighbour after the devastating earthquake and tsunami of 2011. Sendai may be famous for its tongue. But the city itself has a lot more to speak for. There's a lot more at stake in Sendai than what's on the menu. Just check the itinerary. TIM DAVID HARVEY.
